CPU Fan Speed in Red

M

My View

I have an Asus P5S800VM motherboard with Intel processor.
It has just recently started booting to a warning that requires "F1" to
continue.
The warning is "CPU Fan Error! Press F1 to resume".
When I look in the BIOS the fan speed is shown in RED at around 1650 RPM.
I am thinking this is too low.
How can this be fixed?
regards
PeterH
 
E

ElJerid

My View said:
I have an Asus P5S800VM motherboard with Intel processor.
It has just recently started booting to a warning that requires "F1" to
continue.
The warning is "CPU Fan Error! Press F1 to resume".
When I look in the BIOS the fan speed is shown in RED at around 1650 RPM.
I am thinking this is too low.
How can this be fixed?
regards
PeterH
It all depends of the fan you mounted on the CPU. Up to recently, normal
spin speeds were minimum 2000 rpm; however, some "silent" fans like Zalman
are spinning at very low speeds like 800 to 1200 rpm. When booting, the bios
detects this as a fan failure and gives you the warning. Sometimes, an
upgrade of the bios might help. Otherwise, you have to disable the warning
in the bios, or live with the warning.
If you have a stock Intel cooler, 1650 rpm is indeed too low and you should
check the fan.
 
V

V Green

Fan's failing. Common problem with
crappy sleeve-bearing fans supplied as
original equipment.
 
M

Mike Hall \(MS-MVP\)

Clean the fan and heatsink, and/or replace or get replaced the fan and
heatsink..
 
J

Jenny Talyor

Clean the fan and heatsink, and/or replace or get replaced the
fan and heatsink..

....a squirt of WD40 lubricant on the fan spindle can help as well.
 
V

V Green

Jenny Talyor said:
...a squirt of WD40 lubricant on the fan spindle can help as well.

but will eat up the circuitry inside. WD-40 contains
some pretty damaging solvents. Which can be flung all
over the inside of your computer by whirling fan blades.

If you really want to overhaul a fan, you need to take
it apart, clean it up, lube the shaft and bearings with a very
small amt. of white lithium grease.

But you're just postponing the inevitable ;-)
 
M

My View

Could this also account for the PC wanting to reboot occasionally after
opening as far as the desktop.
Although this seemed to only happen after installing Trend Micro PC-Cillin
anti-virus software.
Without PC-Cillin installed it seemed OK.
Could be a different issue?
 
K

kony



No, that is another inappropriate product.
There is no spray lube that should be used on fans.
There is no low-viscosity lube that should be used on fans.
There is no spray cleaner that should be used on fans.

The correct lube for a worn fan is very high viscosity oil
applied in non-aerosol manner (drip, applicator, or syringe
are typical methods).
 
V

V Green

kony said:
No, that is another inappropriate product.
There is no spray lube that should be used on fans.
There is no low-viscosity lube that should be used on fans.
There is no spray cleaner that should be used on fans.

The correct lube for a worn fan is very high viscosity oil
applied in non-aerosol manner (drip, applicator, or syringe
are typical methods).

or white lithium grease, applied SPARINGLY and DIRECTLY
to the shaft and bearings with a toothpick after disassembling
the fan.

You won't lube the thrust washers on the "opposite"
end of the fan spindle (the one without the adhesive label
& rubber plug under it) unless you take it apart and
clean off the old goo.
 
K

kony

but will eat up the circuitry inside. WD-40 contains
some pretty damaging solvents. Which can be flung all
over the inside of your computer by whirling fan blades.

If you really want to overhaul a fan, you need to take
it apart, clean it up, lube the shaft and bearings with a very
small amt. of white lithium grease.



The proper lube is very high viscosity oil, "almost" grease
but it is essential that it not be as thick as regular
grease.

Use the wrong lube and of course the results will not be as
good. This is not merely opinion but mechanical fact, it is
dictated by the bearing type and amount of play present.

Do not use white lithium grease. It is too thick and will
not provide proper lubricant and IF any managed to stay in
the bearing it would drastically reduce RPM. The only time
it would provide acceptible results is if there were a LOT
of residual oil remaining in the bearing well and thus the
grease mixed with the oil to reduce viscosity acceptibly.
Rarely is this the case as having sufficient oil reserve is
generally what keeps the bearing from failing in the first
place.
But you're just postponing the inevitable ;-)

Any but the thinnest of sleeve bearing fans can respond very
well to a proper lubrication with high viscosity oil. They
may continue working for several years, typically at least
for many months, certainly longer than necessary to source a
suitable higher quality replacement fan. This ignores fans
with gross problems such as extremely poor manufacturing,
inherant defects such as horrible balance. Such fans should
be obvious long before failure and replaced as a
preventative measure.

Ball bearings on the other hand do not respond well to
relube, but fortunately they tend to be quite noisey for the
last leg of their duty so there was ample notice of the
replacement need.
 
K

kony

or white lithium grease, applied SPARINGLY and DIRECTLY
to the shaft and bearings with a toothpick after disassembling
the fan.

No, absolutely not white lithium grease.
There is no fan that should have it applied.
You won't lube the thrust washers on the "opposite"
end of the fan spindle (the one without the adhesive label
& rubber plug under it) unless you take it apart and
clean off the old goo.


With the incorrect lube you're using, of course not.

It is not necessary to disassemble a fan for a short-term
fix. In fact, it is not necessary to disassemble a typical
PC fan even to get it working for several more years.

The proper viscosity of lube will wick across the bearing
and provide lubrication for the far side.

However, there is very little thrust issue on the far side,
sleeve-bearing fans are almost never spring-loaded and the
thrust is borne by the side with the label, not the other
side.
 
V

V Green

kony said:
The proper lube is very high viscosity oil, "almost" grease
but it is essential that it not be as thick as regular
grease.

Hmm.

That is NEVER what I see in them when I
take them apart.

What I see is an amber/brownish grease like
the old GC Electronics "PhonoLube" if you're
familiar with that. I took a brand-new sleeve
bearing fan apart once just to see what they
did use. Definitely jelly consistency.

PhonoLube tends to seperate out into more liquid
components which is why I don't use it in this
particular application.

I take just a little lithum grease, make a smear between
thumb and forefinger, and "finger" it onto the spindle
shaft of the fan AFTER taking it apart and cleaning
out the old lube, whatever that was...

Then take JUST A VERY LITTLE and do the running
surfaces of the 3 or 4 plastic washers that go on the spindle
shaft on both sides of the stator assembly.

The stuff I'm using is not at all thick feeling, but I can
see your point about using too much - it can hinder rather
than help.

Anyway, I've resurrected more fans than I care to count
this way, some of them are still running in non-computer
applications after many years. Once a fan, of any type,
seizes up in computer equipment, I try not to use them
again in a computer on a permanent basis, I only use them
until I can procure a ball-bearing replacement.

So, I'm sure we've more than beat the topic to death
here - time to agree to disagree on what would seem to be
different methods at arriving at satisfactory results.
 
J

Joe King

or white lithium grease, applied SPARINGLY and DIRECTLY
to the shaft and bearings with a toothpick after disassembling
the fan.

You won't lube the thrust washers on the "opposite"
end of the fan spindle (the one without the adhesive label
& rubber plug under it) unless you take it apart and
clean off the old goo.

Good grief.

A flame war between Fan Lubrication Fundamentalist factions looms
nigh. Get a f*cking LIFE!
 
K

kony

Hmm.

That is NEVER what I see in them when I
take them apart.

What I see is an amber/brownish grease like
the old GC Electronics "PhonoLube" if you're
familiar with that. I took a brand-new sleeve
bearing fan apart once just to see what they
did use. Definitely jelly consistency.

Low grade fans have a very light grease. It is lighter than
white lithium and the grease separates because it's poor
quality. You see the portions remaining while the thinner
stock flowed around.
PhonoLube tends to seperate out into more liquid
components which is why I don't use it in this
particular application.

So does the typical amber grease.



I take just a little lithum grease, make a smear between
thumb and forefinger, and "finger" it onto the spindle
shaft of the fan AFTER taking it apart and cleaning
out the old lube, whatever that was...

Then take JUST A VERY LITTLE and do the running
surfaces of the 3 or 4 plastic washers that go on the spindle
shaft on both sides of the stator assembly.

The stuff I'm using is not at all thick feeling, but I can
see your point about using too much - it can hinder rather
than help.

Anyway, I've resurrected more fans than I care to count
this way, some of them are still running in non-computer
applications after many years. Once a fan, of any type,
seizes up in computer equipment, I try not to use them
again in a computer on a permanent basis, I only use them
until I can procure a ball-bearing replacement.

Agreed, the better option is to replace the fan when
possible.
So, I'm sure we've more than beat the topic to death
here - time to agree to disagree on what would seem to be
different methods at arriving at satisfactory results.

Fans, like any low-torque, high RPM part, require a lower
viscosity for optimal results. Yes a white grease is better
than nothing. WD40 is better than nothing too, usually, but
so is vasoline or break fluid or (take your pick).

There is no need for this though, the optimal lube is
readily available. If one were stuck in the desert, on
the Space Shuttle or some other outpost then supply becomes
an issue. Otherwise there is no reason not use the optimal
lube.
 
K

kony

Good grief.

A flame war between Fan Lubrication Fundamentalist factions looms
nigh. Get a f*cking LIFE!

Hmm, we're discussing something on-topic and useful to those
who don't know, while you're whining about a thread nobody
forced you to read.

Did it ever occur to you that you just might be an idiot?
 
J

jt3

I cannot speak with the same degree of experience as some of the other
posters to this thread, in that I have probably only done about three or
four fans, but--

1) WD-40 is a bad choice partially because of excess application (aerosol),
but *also* because it has drying-oil components in it, intended as
protectants, and the lubricating oils are too volatile and disappear too
rapidly.

2) I have always had technical advice given me *not* to use heavy oils or
greases in *any* sleeve bearing motor, and my general experience is that
this is probably true on most capacitor start induction motors as the
starting load is too high, but though I have not used it in CPU fan motors,
tese motor designs are very different. However, I have noticed that at
least some of them are very sensitive to starting loads as caused by too
much lubricant.

3) I have always used a light machine oil such as is used on sewing
machines, Marvell Mystery Oil being one such, and applied sparingly with a
toothpick to the disassembled fan.

The only problem I have encountered was losing the tiny retainer clip which
tends to spring away unpredictably. Homemade replacement didn't suit--too
much load on the fan, another reason I would be wary of heavy lubricants.

HTH,
Joe
 
P

P Ruetz

Joe King said:
A flame war between Fan Lubrication Fundamentalist factions looms
nigh. Get a f*cking LIFE!

I, for one, thought the information was useful, not being a fan lubrication
expert. Recently, a little fan rattle made me think about these very
issues.

Peter
 
G

GT

kony said:
No, WD40 is not a lubricant and is a short-term fix at most.

How about a 3-in-1? I have used that to good effect in a case fan before now
and it helped. Its probably conductive, but only a problem if it actually
comes in contact with electronics.
 

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