Barton 2500 bundle still running hot after exchange

N

Neil

I posted a couple of weeks ago that my new motherboard bundle was running
very hot, though was stable.
Essentially it was running at 65-70 deg C with just web usage.

After trying numerous things suggested, I took it back to the vendor. They
tested it and said it seemed OK, though OK to them was running at 70 deg C,
on a factory workbench (i.e NOT in a case), though they said room temp was
around 26 deg C. I was amazed from my research that they believed this
was normal, but they agreed to replace for the same anyway. Trying that
now, it's still almost as hot. Basically I seem to be running 40 degrees
over room temp, and again that's just in a low-usage mode.
i.e. when in the heatwave, my room was 29-30 degrees, MBM showed 70-71
(confirmed also in the BIOS reading).
now it's a cooler 22 deg, I read 62.

Surely that's still 15-20 above what other's tend to get?

System details:

pre-built/pre-tested/pre-configured 2500+ Barton, with ECS L7VTA mainboard
(V1.1), 2 x 256mb PC2700, and a Spire fan (currently with original new
thermal pad).
No overclocking.

Am running in a midi case with 2 EIDE hard-drives; 1 x DVD, 1x DVD-R, and 3
PCI cards, plus an AGP card. The case has a fan on the lower front drawing
air in, and a fan on the rear middle drawing out. I tried (and no use) a
new CoolerMaster rear fan, with temperature sensor and variable speed.
Power supply is 300W.

Should I try a better heatsink & fan? I welcome any thoughts/advice.
I'm a bit frustrated, as I though buying a pre-configured system, and a
supposedly cooler Barton, would eliminate such problems. I may just want
to overclock at some time too.
 
T

tHatDudeUK

Neil said:
I posted a couple of weeks ago that my new motherboard bundle was running
very hot, though was stable.
Essentially it was running at 65-70 deg C with just web usage.
Click to expand...

This is ok but is a bit high for that processor. I would expect about 40 or
less at default settings.
System details:

pre-built/pre-tested/pre-configured
Click to expand...

This could be a problem. Are the people who put it together nubbies who
don't know about ESD and thermal transfer?!
2500+ Barton, with ECS L7VTA mainboard
(V1.1), 2 x 256mb PC2700, and a Spire fan (currently with original new
thermal pad).
Click to expand...

No idea what a Spire fan is, sorry, but you realy need one certified by AMD
to at least the spec of your processor or even better much higher. Don't
think a fan is a fan as it isn't.
Am running in a midi case with 2 EIDE hard-drives; 1 x DVD, 1x DVD-R, and 3
PCI cards, plus an AGP card. The case has a fan on the lower front drawing
air in, and a fan on the rear middle drawing out. I tried (and no use) a
new CoolerMaster rear fan, with temperature sensor and variable speed.
Power supply is 300W.
Click to expand...

That power supply is nowhere near enough IMO. You need at least 350 watts of
a decent brand PSU, eg. Antec or Enermax (the brand is your guarantee of the
PSU meeting that wattage rating and not blowing up your entire system....
I'd recommend a 400 watt Antec.
Should I try a better heatsink & fan? I welcome any thoughts/advice.
I'm a bit frustrated, as I though buying a pre-configured system, and a
supposedly cooler Barton, would eliminate such problems. I may just want
to overclock at some time too.
Click to expand...

I have one overclocked to a 3200 (which needed a little overvoltage in my
case) no problems at temps lower than yours it seems. I'd recommend changing
the heatsink and CPU to at least a Coolermaster CP5-8JD1F-0L which has an
80mm fan and as it says on the sticker it is pretty quiet in comparison with
all the others I've heard. Also, make sure you clean everything properly
with a cleaner which won't leave a residue ie. that difficult to get hold of
Isopropyl Alcohol (I ended up using Medi-swabs easily available in Boots.)
Wipe dry with a lint free cloth after cleaning it. I recommend using the
Sterile Gauze swabs you can buy in boots.

Another possible problem is the PSU or motherboard somewhere along the line
isn't applying the correct voltage to the CPU. I think your PSU is at its
limits anyway and would benefit from replacement. Most PSU's have 2 fans, an
intake inside the case above the CPU (drawing away heat) and an outlet at
the back like usual. Maybe yours doesn't have this?! Take note that this is
recommended by AMD as is a PSU with at least 350 watts I believe.

Since it's preconfigured you may do better sending it back and getting a
refund and doing it yourself, I'm guessing you are competent but perhaps
didn't have the time to choose a motherboard etc and wait in for parcels
every morning etc.... They may have stuck a lower spec processor on the
board and clocked it up so it says 2500+ when you boot up and in the windows
properties screen. That would easily explain the temps. If a system builder
thinks 300 watts is enough for that lot there's something wrong anyhow.
 
R

rAD

Neil said:
I posted a couple of weeks ago that my new motherboard bundle was running
very hot, though was stable.
Essentially it was running at 65-70 deg C with just web usage.
Click to expand...

If it is really running at that temp, and there is proper contact between
CPU and HSF, then the solid metal of the HSF will feel too hot to touch for
long. If it feels just warm then either your temp probe is inaccurate or you
haven't mounted the HSF properly.
 
E

Eric Baillie

If it is really running at that temp, and there is proper contact between
CPU and HSF, then the solid metal of the HSF will feel too hot to touch for
long. If it feels just warm then either your temp probe is inaccurate or you
haven't mounted the HSF properly.
Click to expand...

I would try using heatsink compound instead of the thermal pad.
I am using a spire on my XP1800 and it runs at 36-38C in normal use.
 
?

|||| || | ||||| ||||||||

I would try using heatsink compound instead of the thermal pad.
Click to expand...

*nod*

The Akasa thermal pad on my AMD 2.0 dried up completely, causing the pc to
randomly reboot. I'll never use a thermal pad again.
 
T

trimicada

I would try a better hs/fan also. My system is only 3 days old yet, but
what I have observed is a reported cpu temp of 36-40 degrees C. I also am
running the Barton 2500 with a Vantec Aeroflow. No special thermal
compound, just the stuff included with the Vantec.
 
S

SteveH

Neil said:
I posted a couple of weeks ago that my new motherboard bundle was running
very hot, though was stable.
Essentially it was running at 65-70 deg C with just web usage.

After trying numerous things suggested, I took it back to the vendor. They
tested it and said it seemed OK, though OK to them was running at 70 deg C,
on a factory workbench (i.e NOT in a case), though they said room temp was
around 26 deg C. I was amazed from my research that they believed this
was normal, but they agreed to replace for the same anyway. Trying that
now, it's still almost as hot. Basically I seem to be running 40 degrees
over room temp, and again that's just in a low-usage mode.
i.e. when in the heatwave, my room was 29-30 degrees, MBM showed 70-71
(confirmed also in the BIOS reading).
now it's a cooler 22 deg, I read 62.

Surely that's still 15-20 above what other's tend to get?

System details:

pre-built/pre-tested/pre-configured 2500+ Barton, with ECS L7VTA mainboard
(V1.1), 2 x 256mb PC2700, and a Spire fan (currently with original new
thermal pad).
No overclocking.

Am running in a midi case with 2 EIDE hard-drives; 1 x DVD, 1x DVD-R, and 3
PCI cards, plus an AGP card. The case has a fan on the lower front drawing
air in, and a fan on the rear middle drawing out. I tried (and no use) a
new CoolerMaster rear fan, with temperature sensor and variable speed.
Power supply is 300W.

Should I try a better heatsink & fan? I welcome any thoughts/advice.
I'm a bit frustrated, as I though buying a pre-configured system, and a
supposedly cooler Barton, would eliminate such problems. I may just want
to overclock at some time too.
Click to expand...
Hi,

I would say thats way too hot! Especially if thats at idle. How hot will it
get when pushed?

Having said that, I was just checking out that board on one of the review
sites, and in the pictures they have taken of the BIOS, it shows the CPU
temperature as 62c (don't know which CPU though, but still a bit high. And
its always higher when you are in BIOS of course).

Another thing I thought of was that the BIOS is misreporting the temps (had
this a while back on a MSI NForce board). If that is the case, there is no
BIOS fix for it on the ECS website.

As one of the other posters said, it could be that your vendor has
overclocked a slower CPU, which of course would be very naughty.

I think this has more to do with the board than the CPU. Can you possibly
try the CPU in a different board? Or get your vendor to do so (so it becomes
their risk).

HTH SteveH
(Athlon XP2600+ currently at 39c)
 
S

Stacey

Neil said:
I posted a couple of weeks ago that my new motherboard bundle was running
very hot, though was stable.
Essentially it was running at 65-70 deg C with just web usage.
Click to expand...


What is the CPU voltage set at? Seems odd for two sets to be doing the same?
I've found the XP tbred core (barton should be about the same?) even with
stock coolers run way under 50C.
 
N

Neil

What is the CPU voltage set at? Seems odd for two sets to be doing the
same?
I've found the XP tbred core (barton should be about the same?) even with
stock coolers run way under 50C.
Click to expand...

The BIOS shows this as 1.63 to 1.64V for "CPU Vcoure" (it seems to fluctuate
a little as I watch it).
This is on the newly installed PSU.

There are no jumpers on the board for the CPU power settings, it appears to
set them automatically from the CPU.

With this new PSU I'm now running at 59 degrees in near idle mode, as shown
by MBM. Room temp 20.5.
Seems pretty much the same as with previous PSU.

Neil
 
B

bogustxtburnetga

The BIOS shows this as 1.63 to 1.64V for "CPU Vcoure" (it seems to fluctuate
a little as I watch it).
This is on the newly installed PSU.

There are no jumpers on the board for the CPU power settings, it appears to
set them automatically from the CPU.

With this new PSU I'm now running at 59 degrees in near idle mode, as shown
by MBM. Room temp 20.5.
Seems pretty much the same as with previous PSU.
/
Click to expand...

Go to www.newegg.com and pick up a Thermaltake Volcano 10+ ( + means 2
ball bearing fan ) They are only $15 and are copper heatsinks !

:) Greg B.
 
T

Tim Auton

tHatDudeUK said:
No wonder "48 dB at 4800 rpm" hope the noise level isn't to bad :)
Click to expand...

48dB? That must be rather like when the police helicopter was circling
over my house this afternoon.


Tim
 
L

ljg

Your case seems to be pretty full......maybe you need a larger case
because unused volume inside the case promotes better air circulation
and hence cooling.
 
N

Neil

Your case seems to be pretty full......maybe you need a larger case
because unused volume inside the case promotes better air circulation
and hence cooling.
Click to expand...

I've now fitted a CoolerMaster Aero7+, and have seen a fair improvement....

Room temp= 22 deg C, just using the Web (i.e. not under load) I'm seeing
temps of around 51-52 deg if on maximum fan speed, or 54-55 if on minimum.
That's around 6-10 degrees less than previously ,but still seems a little
hot compared to what others report for a Barton 2500.

Is it really proven that a larger case does help run cooler? I have a
bigger full-tower case I could use, with a lot more space in it, but it
would take me several hours to swap the innards around...

I know I needn't worry, and probably needn't have done so even at 60-65
degrees, but I don't want a heater in this room; I may want to try
overclocking at some stage, and I just wanted to be a part of the
cooler-running clan! ;-)

Neil
 

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