x800xl and Far Cry, disasterous!

A

AAvK

....WHAT - A - DISASTER!!!

My tech specs:

WinXP home SP2
Abit IS7 mobo
P4c HT 2.60ghz
1 gb Kingston Dual channel PC3200/DDR400 Value RAM
Maxtor 80gb 7200rpm/8mb on a seralell (Siralell?) adapter
Maxtor 40gb 7200/2MB storage disc
New Pioneer DVD drive
Sony burner
x800xl AGP made by ATI, 256/256bit 400gpu / 980RAM...
-- Product ID: 100-435508
-- using Omega 5.9 drivers only, thus far

On first attempt, using the fully upgraded Far Cry 1.33, the computer
shuts down fully, power all the way off, taking much MB electricity with
it, as takes 3 minutes to be able to turn it on again. This happens time after
time and it played fine, if a little slow, using the old GF4 Ti4600. by
Chaintech.

After the second occurance I increased the AGP voltage by a half a point
as well as the same for the P4 CPU... then I was able to start the game and
play a while at increased graphics levels and some types shadows for
smaller objects were not black, but green and yellow. When driving a vehicle
it froze after a while, then it was all over for good, and same story.

I must have worked with this for 5 hours, and gone through 25 restarts...
Anyone know what can be done before I grab a replacement RMA?

TIA all,
 
P

Paul Goodhew

AAvK wrote in message ...
...WHAT - A - DISASTER!!!

My tech specs:

WinXP home SP2
Abit IS7 mobo
P4c HT 2.60ghz
1 gb Kingston Dual channel PC3200/DDR400 Value RAM
Maxtor 80gb 7200rpm/8mb on a seralell (Siralell?) adapter
Maxtor 40gb 7200/2MB storage disc
New Pioneer DVD drive
Sony burner
x800xl AGP made by ATI, 256/256bit 400gpu / 980RAM...
-- Product ID: 100-435508
-- using Omega 5.9 drivers only, thus far

On first attempt, using the fully upgraded Far Cry 1.33, the computer
shuts down fully, power all the way off, taking much MB electricity with
it, as takes 3 minutes to be able to turn it on again. This happens time after
time and it played fine, if a little slow, using the old GF4 Ti4600. by
Chaintech.

After the second occurance I increased the AGP voltage by a half a point
as well as the same for the P4 CPU... then I was able to start the game and
play a while at increased graphics levels and some types shadows for
smaller objects were not black, but green and yellow. When driving a vehicle
it froze after a while, then it was all over for good, and same story.

I must have worked with this for 5 hours, and gone through 25 restarts...
Anyone know what can be done before I grab a replacement RMA?

TIA all,

It's probably related to your power supply. You are probably using too much
power for it to handle. anything less than 350 watt power supply and you are
asking for trouble. If you have alot drives etc then a 450 watt PSU would be
the go.
 
A

AAvK

It's probably related to your power supply. You are probably using too much
power for it to handle. anything less than 350 watt power supply and you are
asking for trouble. If you have alot drives etc then a 450 watt PSU would be
the go.
Thanks but that's what I've got, 450 watts and it is plugged into the card.
No other game besides Far Cry shuts the computer down.
 
F

fanni001

...WHAT - A - DISASTER!!!
My tech specs:

WinXP home SP2
Abit IS7 mobo
P4c HT 2.60ghz
1 gb Kingston Dual channel PC3200/DDR400 Value RAM
Maxtor 80gb 7200rpm/8mb on a seralell (Siralell?) adapter
Maxtor 40gb 7200/2MB storage disc
New Pioneer DVD drive
Sony burner
x800xl AGP made by ATI, 256/256bit 400gpu / 980RAM...
-- Product ID: 100-435508
-- using Omega 5.9 drivers only, thus far

On first attempt, using the fully upgraded Far Cry 1.33, the computer
shuts down fully, power all the way off, taking much MB electricity with
it, as takes 3 minutes to be able to turn it on again. This happens time
after
time and it played fine, if a little slow, using the old GF4 Ti4600. by
Chaintech.

After the second occurance I increased the AGP voltage by a half a point
as well as the same for the P4 CPU... then I was able to start the game
and
play a while at increased graphics levels and some types shadows for
smaller objects were not black, but green and yellow. When driving a
vehicle
it froze after a while, then it was all over for good, and same story.

I must have worked with this for 5 hours, and gone through 25 restarts...
Anyone know what can be done before I grab a replacement RMA?


Use all "default" settings for mobo and graphics card. Use default ATI
drivers and not Omega. And make certain it's not the PSU. A poor 450W unit
will cough and splutter . I found this out a while back with mine. It was a
no name cheap-o and with 2 burners, 2 Kingston RAM modules, ATI X800PRO, USB
devices etc, etc..it would freeze playing certain games. Far Cry was one.
 
D

Derek Baker

AAvK said:
Thanks but that's what I've got, 450 watts and it is plugged into the card.
No other game besides Far Cry shuts the computer down.
What's the make and model of that PSU?
 
D

dave

It'll definately be the power supply - we had a problem with an nVidia
card and a 450W PSU, the games ran OK but when playing Far Cry for two
hours the PSU blew up (obviously the PSU was being overdriven and wasn't
regulated poroperly) !

We now have a 750W PSU and everything is fine - If you wish to maintain
cutting edge performance without continually replacing PSU you're
probably better getting a 1KW PSU :)
 
V

Villain

...WHAT - A - DISASTER!!!

My tech specs:

WinXP home SP2
Abit IS7 mobo
P4c HT 2.60ghz
1 gb Kingston Dual channel PC3200/DDR400 Value RAM
Maxtor 80gb 7200rpm/8mb on a seralell (Siralell?) adapter
Maxtor 40gb 7200/2MB storage disc
New Pioneer DVD drive
Sony burner
x800xl AGP made by ATI, 256/256bit 400gpu / 980RAM...
-- Product ID: 100-435508
-- using Omega 5.9 drivers only, thus far

On first attempt, using the fully upgraded Far Cry 1.33, the computer
shuts down fully, power all the way off, taking much MB electricity with
it, as takes 3 minutes to be able to turn it on again. This happens time after
time and it played fine, if a little slow, using the old GF4 Ti4600. by
Chaintech.

After the second occurance I increased the AGP voltage by a half a point
as well as the same for the P4 CPU... then I was able to start the game and
play a while at increased graphics levels and some types shadows for
smaller objects were not black, but green and yellow. When driving a vehicle
it froze after a while, then it was all over for good, and same story.

I must have worked with this for 5 hours, and gone through 25 restarts...
Anyone know what can be done before I grab a replacement RMA?

TIA all,

Sounds like it might be power supply related. If you can, borrow a PSU
from a friend or pug the card in a friends machine and try it.

Don't know what ATI recommends, but I'm sure it takes at least 459w or
better.

Villain

"Bravery is not a function of firepower"
-J.C. Denton-
 
A

Al Kaufmann

Use all "default" settings for mobo and graphics card. Use default ATI
drivers and not Omega. And make certain it's not the PSU. A poor 450W unit
will cough and splutter . I found this out a while back with mine. It was a
no name cheap-o and with 2 burners, 2 Kingston RAM modules, ATI X800PRO, USB
devices etc, etc..it would freeze playing certain games. Far Cry was one.

My system:
Abit NF7-S with 3200+ cpu, 2 GB ram dual channel, ATI X850 XT, 3
maxtor drives, 2 CD/DVD burners, usb webcam, ethernet card, usb 2.0
self powered hub, ATI TV Tuner PCI, HP parallel port printer, usb
webcam and I think all the rest is plugged into the usb hub. The
system is powered by an Antec 480W True Power supply. I am running
Windows XP Pro SP2 and the latest ATI driver.

As luck would have it I bought a new mouse (Logtech G5) and installed
the Far Cry demo to give it a try. The mouse acted very strangely and
slowed down many times. I played around with the mouse a bit but I
could not get this game to work properly. Since the mouse works as
advertised with other games like Unreal Tournament I blamed Far Cry
and uninstalled it.

If the problem I am having with Far Cry is caused by my power supply -
why does this game need so much power? Also what is the recommended
power supply?

Thanks,
Al
 
A

Alfie [UK]

As luck would have it I bought a new mouse (Logtech G5) and installed
the Far Cry demo to give it a try. The mouse acted very strangely and
slowed down many times. I played around with the mouse a bit but I
could not get this game to work properly. Since the mouse works as
advertised with other games like Unreal Tournament I blamed Far Cry
and uninstalled it.

If the problem I am having with Far Cry is caused by my power supply -
why does this game need so much power? Also what is the recommended
power supply?
The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore. If you draw too
much power the PSU will shutdown to stop it burning out. Equally if you
have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a significant power level
the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow it's 12v rails through
'overheating'. This is more of a problem with the cheaper PSUs as they
do not have such a stable output.

A good test is to use this calculator to see if you have an appropriate
level of power; http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/

You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU than the
calculator says you need to be safe from the typical fluctuations you
can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a stable
power profile. Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging
your PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than
you need.

With regard to your problems with FarCry, do you have the Logitech
drivers installed as some drivers are known to be flakey (and usually
only with some software which makes you scratch your head as to whether
it's the software or the drivers causing the problem) ?
 
P

Phil Weldon

'Alfie [UK]' wrote, in part:
| The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
| shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
| and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.
_____

Your statement 'Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.' isn't necessarily
true; a 300 watt PSU may very will be completely adequate.

Your statement 'if you have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a
significant power level the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow it's
12v rails through 'overheating' is not at all true.

Your statement| 'You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU
than the calculator says you need to be safe from the typical fluctuations
you can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a stable
power profile.' makes no sense at all.

Your statement 'Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging your
PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than you
need.' is ludicrous.

Try a read of
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V PSDG2.0 Ratified.pdff
and
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf
..
Pay particular attention to:
"System power supply needs vary widely depending on factors such as the
application (that is, for desktop, workstation, or server), intended ambient
environment (temperature, line voltage), or motherboard power requirements."



Phil Weldon

"Alfie [UK]" (e-mail address removed) wrote in message
| On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 15:13:06 GMT, Al Kaufmann <[email protected]>
| wrote:
| >On Fri, 7 Oct 2005 09:05:26 +0200, "fanni001" <[email protected]>
| >wrote:
| >
| >As luck would have it I bought a new mouse (Logtech G5) and installed
| >the Far Cry demo to give it a try. The mouse acted very strangely and
| >slowed down many times. I played around with the mouse a bit but I
| >could not get this game to work properly. Since the mouse works as
| >advertised with other games like Unreal Tournament I blamed Far Cry
| >and uninstalled it.
| >
| >If the problem I am having with Far Cry is caused by my power supply -
| >why does this game need so much power? Also what is the recommended
| >power supply?
| >
If you draw too
| much power the PSU will shutdown to stop it burning out. Equally if you
| have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a significant power level
| the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow it's 12v rails through
| 'overheating'. This is more of a problem with the cheaper PSUs as they
| do not have such a stable output.
|
| A good test is to use this calculator to see if you have an appropriate
| level of power; http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
|
| You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU than the
| calculator says you need to be safe from the typical fluctuations you
| can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a stable
| power profile. Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging
| your PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than
| you need.
|
| With regard to your problems with FarCry, do you have the Logitech
| drivers installed as some drivers are known to be flakey (and usually
| only with some software which makes you scratch your head as to whether
| it's the software or the drivers causing the problem) ?
| --
| Alfie
| http://www.delphia.co.uk/
| Caution: Always engage brain before operating mouth.
|
 
A

Alfie [UK]

'Alfie [UK]' wrote, in part:
| The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
| shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
| and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.
_____

Most of that info came from my own experiences when I first put a nVidia
Geforce 6800 GPU (requiring 1 additional PSU connection) in my PC, it
would often power down for no reason whatsoever, and then trying to find
out why.
Your statement 'Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.' isn't necessarily
true; a 300 watt PSU may very will be completely adequate.

OK, I should have said MAY not cut it anymore. With the new GPUs
requiring their own power if you have multiple drives and USB devices
you MAY run out of power. The PSU will shut itself down in these
situations, pretty much any PSU has a built in fuse for too much power.
Your statement 'if you have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a
significant power level the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow it's
12v rails through 'overheating' is not at all true.

I stand by this statement, to some degree. I replaced my system with a
500w power system but it would also suffer power downs for no apparent
reason. I was advised that my system did not draw enough power and the
PSU was invoking power-over management and reducing power output to
avoid a 'burn'.
Your statement| 'You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU
than the calculator says you need to be safe from the typical fluctuations
you can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a stable
power profile.' makes no sense at all.

Hmm, yes, questionable. The calc suggested 310w used, so I put in a 350w
cheapo and when it got hot it would power down. Using the mobo power
check, when it was hot the PSU delivered less power, to the point it
would trip. I bought a more expensive 350w dual rail PSU and it was much
more stable.
Your statement 'Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging your
PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than you
need.' is ludicrous.

I was advised by others not to put in a 500w PSU as I first wanted to
do. Yes PSUs have under-draw protection, but prolonged use at low power
levels supposedly reduces the lifetime of the PSU.

As the 2nd link you provided states; PSUs MAY not have over-temperature
protection, where over-temperature is the result of current overload or
fan failure.
 
P

Phil Weldon

'Alfie' wrote, in part:
| Most of that info came from my own experiences when I first put a nVidia
| Geforce 6800 GPU (requiring 1 additional PSU connection) in my PC, it
| would often power down for no reason whatsoever, and then trying to find
| out why
_____

Well, a few anecdotes don't a summer make.
1. ATX specification power supplies (ATX12V and later) don't operate in the
manner you seem to have understood. They have 'load sharing' - wattage is
shared among the important rails, +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.

2. A display adapter using the nVidia 6800 uses far less power (perhaps
half) compared to one using the nVidia 6800 Ultra.

3. New GPUs aren't 'requiring their own power'; some display adapter have
several connecting pins for +12V DC; this connects to the same +12V DC rail
that drives use. This replaces power that was previously drawn from the +5V
DC and/or +3.3V DC rails. The display adapters have on-board DC-to-DC
down-convertor/regulators that work more efficiently with +12V DC input than
with +5V DC or +3.3V DC input. The connecting wires and traces can be
smaller. The higher input voltage provides more stable operation. There is
power wasted and less heat produced using +12V DC than with the lower
voltages. Just because a display adapter requires a +12V DC connector
doesn't mean it draws more power than one which does not - it may even draw
less for the reasons just given. Using multiple +12V DC connectors SAVES
power because less in wasted in contact and conductor resistance.

4. Multiple USB devices ~= multiple fans ~= negligible. Multiple drives ~=
not very much except during spin-up.
ATX power supplies DO NOT SHUT THEMSELVES DOWN IF TOO MUCH POWER IS DRAWN!
ATX power supplies DO shut down if a dead short develops. ATX power
supplies will begin to overheat if to much power is drawn, but this takes a
relatively long period of time, much longer than the period of time for
drives to spin up. The overload protection fuse is to protect the AC wiring
with in the case and the AC wiring between the case and the building breaker
box. This fuse is a safety feature, not an overload protector. An overload
of several times the rated power is necessary to blow the fuse within a few
minutes.

5. | I replaced my system with a
| 500w power system but it would also suffer power downs for no apparent
| reason. I was advised that my system did not draw enough power and the
| PSU was invoking power-over management and reducing power output to
| avoid a 'burn'.
You were advised wrongly.

6. | Hmm, yes, questionable. The calc suggested 310w used, so I put in a
350w
| cheapo and when it got hot it would power down. Using the mobo power
| check, when it was hot the PSU delivered less power, to the point it
| would trip. I bought a more expensive 350w dual rail PSU and it was much
| more stable.
In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room ambient
temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies are
rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
inadequate at 75 C.

7. | I was advised by others not to put in a 500w PSU as I first wanted to
| do. Yes PSUs have under-draw protection, but prolonged use at low power
| levels supposedly reduces the lifetime of the PSU.
You were advised wrongly.

Really, try studying the two documents from formfactor.org. The next time
you get advice on ATX power supplies, try asking follow-up questions. It
really does sound as if your previous advice came from someone unclear on
the difference between switching powersupplies and linear power supplies.




| On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 18:51:03 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
| >'Alfie [UK]' wrote, in part:
| >| The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
| >| shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
| >| and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.
| >_____
|
| Most of that info came from my own experiences when I first put a nVidia
| Geforce 6800 GPU (requiring 1 additional PSU connection) in my PC, it
| would often power down for no reason whatsoever, and then trying to find
| out why.
| >
| >Your statement 'Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power
connections
| >and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.' isn't necessarily
| >true; a 300 watt PSU may very will be completely adequate.
|
| OK, I should have said MAY not cut it anymore. With the new GPUs
| requiring their own power if you have multiple drives and USB devices
| you MAY run out of power. The PSU will shut itself down in these
| situations, pretty much any PSU has a built in fuse for too much power.
| >
| >Your statement 'if you have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a
| >significant power level the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow
it's
| >12v rails through 'overheating' is not at all true.
|
| I stand by this statement, to some degree. I replaced my system with a
| 500w power system but it would also suffer power downs for no apparent
| reason. I was advised that my system did not draw enough power and the
| PSU was invoking power-over management and reducing power output to
| avoid a 'burn'.
| >
| >Your statement| 'You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU
| >than the calculator says you need to be safe from the typical
fluctuations
| >you can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a
stable
| >power profile.' makes no sense at all.
|
| Hmm, yes, questionable. The calc suggested 310w used, so I put in a 350w
| cheapo and when it got hot it would power down. Using the mobo power
| check, when it was hot the PSU delivered less power, to the point it
| would trip. I bought a more expensive 350w dual rail PSU and it was much
| more stable.
| >
| >Your statement 'Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging
your
| >PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than you
| >need.' is ludicrous.
|
| I was advised by others not to put in a 500w PSU as I first wanted to
| do. Yes PSUs have under-draw protection, but prolonged use at low power
| levels supposedly reduces the lifetime of the PSU.
|
| As the 2nd link you provided states; PSUs MAY not have over-temperature
| protection, where over-temperature is the result of current overload or
| fan failure.
| >
| >Try a read of
|
| >and
| >http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf
| >.
| >Pay particular attention to:
| >"System power supply needs vary widely depending on factors such as the
| >application (that is, for desktop, workstation, or server), intended
ambient
| >environment (temperature, line voltage), or motherboard power
requirements."
| >
| --
| Alfie
| <http://www.delphia.co.uk/>
| It's called Irony. You know. Like goldy or silvery, only it's made out of
iron.
|
 
D

dawg

If it's a cheapie PS,it doesn't matter if it's 800W!! Not saying you've got
a crappy PS. But if it doesn't have enough amperage on the 12V(18A at least)
and 5V(35A at least) you might get problems with new hardware and software..
It could be Far cry stresses everthing and shows some weaknesess. I could be
wrong. Might be a software problem with motherboard drivers or even sound
drivers.
 
A

Al Kaufmann

The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore. If you draw too
much power the PSU will shutdown to stop it burning out. Equally if you
have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a significant power level
the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow it's 12v rails through
'overheating'. This is more of a problem with the cheaper PSUs as they
do not have such a stable output.

A good test is to use this calculator to see if you have an appropriate
level of power; http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/

You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU than the
calculator says you need to be safe from the typical fluctuations you
can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a stable
power profile. Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging
your PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than
you need.

With regard to your problems with FarCry, do you have the Logitech
drivers installed as some drivers are known to be flakey (and usually
only with some software which makes you scratch your head as to whether
it's the software or the drivers causing the problem) ?

Yes I am using the Logitech driver and I was not impressed. The
first thing I found was a bug that their driver does not work properly
when the games are installed on drive D:. That has been reported an
maybe they will fix it. I uninstalled and installed my games on drive
C: but that did not cure the problem I had with Far Cry.

I just tried the above calculator and it says I need 398 Watts of
power and if you add 20%, it is 477.6 watts. My Antec True Power is
480 watts. :)

I run Motherboard Monitor and everything there shows normal. If there
were fluctuations I would expect to see them there. I'm not convinced
that my problem with Far Cry is my power supply. My system does not
crash with Far Cry, it just stops recognising mouse commands. I may
try a MS Mouse and see if it work better.

Ak
 
A

Al Kaufmann

In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room ambient
temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies are
rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
inadequate at 75 C.

I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
good idea if you are into overclocking.

I have enough case fans and a very good cpu heatsink and fan but still
my system gets about 10C hotter than a similar system with an Enermax
power supply and I have been scratching my head about that for a long
time now. I even thought I had faulty case fans because they were not
pushing much air. I finally read the fine print in the power supply
manual and the "special fan only connectors" the power supply provides
also regulate the case fans to the lowest speeds! I just wonder how
the power supply can tell what temperature I want inside my case.

Guess I will be disconnecing those fan only power connectors and using
the regular connectors.

Ak
 
P

Phil Weldon

'Al Kaufmann' wrote, in part:
_____

| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
_____

Power supply fans that speed up when the power supply gets hot are a fine
idea. The manufacturer will choose fan speeds to keep the Power Supply
operating within specificatios. But ONLY IF the temperature of the air
ENTERING the Power Supply is enough lower than the specified operating
temperature range. It is reasonable to allow the power supply to choose a
speed for other case fans since the power supply heat output will pretty
well track the over all heat output (its all heat in the end - very little
energy is stored a magnetic orientations in magnetic media!) And are the
temperature set points for the fans adjustable?

Cooling a computer system requires adequate interchange of cooling fluid
between the inside of the case and the outside of the case.
The cooling fluid (ambient air) must be sufficiently lower than the desired
operating temperature for reasonably sized heat exchangers and blowers/pumps
to transfer the heat generated.

The thermal resistance between the high thermal density components
(CPU/GPU/chipset/Memory chips) must be sufficiently low.

Air flow WITHIN the system case is important. This is not a trivial
problem. Systems run coolest and quietest when air from outside the case is
directly applied to the CPU heat exchanger, the GPU heat exchanger and the
PSU, then exhausted diredtly outside the case. An additional air stream
should idealy be used to cool hard drives, memory and motherboard (along
with the hotspots - chipsets, DC-DC convertor/regulators, and memory.) You
can either go with a well designed completely solution (manufactured
computer where supposedly the design is reasonably good) or experiment with
fans, flow directions, accessories, baffles and case apertures. The same
equipment arranged differently can make marked temperature differences.
However, starting with a 15 C ambient room temperature trumps all.

Phil Weldon


| On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 23:16:11 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
|
| >In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
| >also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room
ambient
| >temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
| >you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies
are
| >rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
| >derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
| >inadequate at 75 C.
|
| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
|
| I have enough case fans and a very good cpu heatsink and fan but still
| my system gets about 10C hotter than a similar system with an Enermax
| power supply and I have been scratching my head about that for a long
| time now. I even thought I had faulty case fans because they were not
| pushing much air. I finally read the fine print in the power supply
| manual and the "special fan only connectors" the power supply provides
| also regulate the case fans to the lowest speeds! I just wonder how
| the power supply can tell what temperature I want inside my case.
|
| Guess I will be disconnecing those fan only power connectors and using
| the regular connectors.
|
| Ak
|
 
A

AAvK

That's interesting too, compared to my rig. That calc says I use about 375 watts,
add the 20% and it becomes 450 watts... right at the top end of my old PSu.
You're better off slightly and no fricken wonder why mine powers down!
 
A

Al Kaufmann

'Al Kaufmann' wrote, in part:
_____

| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
_____

Power supply fans that speed up when the power supply gets hot are a fine
idea. The manufacturer will choose fan speeds to keep the Power Supply
operating within specificatios. But ONLY IF the temperature of the air
ENTERING the Power Supply is enough lower than the specified operating
temperature range. It is reasonable to allow the power supply to choose a
speed for other case fans since the power supply heat output will pretty
well track the over all heat output (its all heat in the end - very little
energy is stored a magnetic orientations in magnetic media!) And are the
temperature set points for the fans adjustable?

No the case fan speeds are not adjustable as far as I know but the fan
on my cpu heatsink is adjustable and it is set at maximum - very
noisy. The 4 case fans are connected to special fan connectors and
they are pushing very little air.

I found out sometime ago that by taking the side off my case, I can
lower the speed of my cpu fan to minimum and the temperature reported
by Motherboard Monitor drops by about 5~10C. To top thing off I
reason enjoy the reduction in noise.
Cooling a computer system requires adequate interchange of cooling fluid
between the inside of the case and the outside of the case.
The cooling fluid (ambient air) must be sufficiently lower than the desired
operating temperature for reasonably sized heat exchangers and blowers/pumps
to transfer the heat generated.

The thermal resistance between the high thermal density components
(CPU/GPU/chipset/Memory chips) must be sufficiently low.

Air flow WITHIN the system case is important. This is not a trivial
problem. Systems run coolest and quietest when air from outside the case is
directly applied to the CPU heat exchanger, the GPU heat exchanger and the
PSU, then exhausted diredtly outside the case. An additional air stream
should idealy be used to cool hard drives, memory and motherboard (along
with the hotspots - chipsets, DC-DC convertor/regulators, and memory.) You
can either go with a well designed completely solution (manufactured
computer where supposedly the design is reasonably good) or experiment with
fans, flow directions, accessories, baffles and case apertures. The same
equipment arranged differently can make marked temperature differences.
However, starting with a 15 C ambient room temperature trumps all.

My case is well designed Lian-Li PC60u with 2 case fans in front
pulling air in and one at the top and back for exit. I will connect
these fans to the regular connectors and then see what happens to the
temperature inside the case.

Ak
 
A

AAvK

ATX power supplies DO NOT SHUT THEMSELVES DOWN IF TOO MUCH POWER IS DRAWN!
ATX power supplies DO shut down if a dead short develops. ATX power
supplies will begin to overheat if to much power is drawn, but this takes a
relatively long period of time, much longer than the period of time for
drives to spin up. The overload protection fuse is to protect the AC wiring
with in the case and the AC wiring between the case and the building breaker
box. This fuse is a safety feature, not an overload protector. An overload
of several times the rated power is necessary to blow the fuse within a few
minutes.
Phil, power I am using, 375 watts plus 20% adds up to exactly the same as my
PSu is rated, 450 watts. You say this is sufficient, I have enough cooling definitely
as the whole case is internally exposed... the side cover is off. Only Far Cry shuts
the computer down, doesn't matter if anything is drawing too much power, so the
PSu must have some kind of short?

I did find a small capacitor on the floor of the case one time over a year ago. I
examined the whole mobo and the cards, no place could be found where it would
be missing from. Do you think the cap could have lopped out of the PSu through
the fan??? This PSu has a fan on it's bottom face and another on the face that is
the back, where the power switch and cord are located.
 

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