Question about LGA 775 cooler backplate adhesive tape.

[Bozothedeathmachine]

Hi, all.

I just got a used LGA 775 CPU and cooler. The backplate for the cooler
was attached to the MB with some kind of tape. I finally got it off,
but destroyed the tape. The tape looked like the insulating anit-
static stuff HW ships in. Is that correct? I'm looking for a
replacement to put it on my new mobo, but can't find it anywhere. Do I
need this stuff, or will normal double-sided tape do? There's some
metal solder exposed on the bottom of the board and I don't want to
short anything by not having proper insulation.

Thanks.

 

[Flasherly]

Hi, all.

I just got a used LGA 775 CPU and cooler. The backplate for the cooler
was attached to the MB with some kind of tape. I finally got it off,
but destroyed the tape. The tape looked like the insulating anit-
static stuff HW ships in. Is that correct? I'm looking for a
replacement to put it on my new mobo, but can't find it anywhere. Do I
need this stuff, or will normal double-sided tape do? There's some
metal solder exposed on the bottom of the board and I don't want to
short anything by not having proper insulation.

Thanks.

Heatsink adhesive for directly attaching to the CPU. Garbage compared
to better compounds. You risk burning your CPU up without a
replacement. Go over to Newegg and look up CPU thermal paste, and
look around at some hardware sites for how to put the stuff on.

 

[Paul]

Hi, all.

I just got a used LGA 775 CPU and cooler. The backplate for the cooler
was attached to the MB with some kind of tape. I finally got it off,
but destroyed the tape. The tape looked like the insulating anit-
static stuff HW ships in. Is that correct? I'm looking for a
replacement to put it on my new mobo, but can't find it anywhere. Do I
need this stuff, or will normal double-sided tape do? There's some
metal solder exposed on the bottom of the board and I don't want to
short anything by not having proper insulation.

Thanks.

The purpose of using double sided tape, is to hold the plate
in place when no heatsink is attached to the top of the board.

If there is any danger of the plate touching copper conductors or
solder blobs, then you should at least place an insulator in the way.
If the tape has sufficient density when compressed, it may provide
that insulation as well.

If you don't use double sided tape, then you may need to have the
whole PCB out of the case, while working on your heatsink/fan. That way,
you'll be able to visually check the backplate is securely in place,
and not have it break loose when removing the heatsink on the top
of the motherboard. (I have to do that with my current computer - take
it all apart, if the CPU heatsink/fan needs work.)

When selecting a plastic to use as an insulator for the plate, select
something that has good "puncture resistance". As an example of what
not to use, you'll notice that green garbage bags are particularly
bad about things like that. The plastic used in overhead transparency
slides (for doing Powerpoint presentations with an overhead projector),
seem to be pretty good. Multiple layers of that kind of plastic,
likely would not be punctured all the way through, if used as an
insulator.

The black foam that leaded ICs used to ship in, may compress too much,
and wouldn't be my first choice as a solution.

If you need double sided tape, one place to look in the hardware store,
is in the area they keep the "window insulation kits". I remember getting
a roll of double sided tape from there. A "window insulation kit" is a supply
of double sided tape, plus cheap plastic sheet, that goes over the interior
of your home windows, to prevent condensation in the winter. The double sided
tape holds the plastic film, to the wood of the window frame.

Paul

 

[GlowingBlueMist]

The purpose of using double sided tape, is to hold the plate
in place when no heatsink is attached to the top of the board.

If there is any danger of the plate touching copper conductors or
solder blobs, then you should at least place an insulator in the way.
If the tape has sufficient density when compressed, it may provide
that insulation as well.

If you don't use double sided tape, then you may need to have the
whole PCB out of the case, while working on your heatsink/fan. That
way, you'll be able to visually check the backplate is securely in
place, and not have it break loose when removing the heatsink on the top
of the motherboard. (I have to do that with my current computer - take
it all apart, if the CPU heatsink/fan needs work.)

When selecting a plastic to use as an insulator for the plate, select
something that has good "puncture resistance". As an example of what
not to use, you'll notice that green garbage bags are particularly
bad about things like that. The plastic used in overhead transparency
slides (for doing Powerpoint presentations with an overhead
projector), seem to be pretty good. Multiple layers of that kind of
plastic,
likely would not be punctured all the way through, if used as an
insulator.

The black foam that leaded ICs used to ship in, may compress too much,
and wouldn't be my first choice as a solution.

If you need double sided tape, one place to look in the hardware
store, is in the area they keep the "window insulation kits". I remember
getting a roll of double sided tape from there. A "window insulation kit"
is
a supply of double sided tape, plus cheap plastic sheet, that goes
over the interior of your home windows, to prevent condensation in
the winter. The double sided tape holds the plastic film, to the wood
of the window frame.
Paul

If you need to make a plastic insulator for a mounting plate that goes under
the motherboard here is a suggestion. The plastic from the side of a gallon
milk bottle cuts well with a good pair of scissors and is quite puncture
resistant as well as non-conductive. Cut it to match the plate, punch the
holes needed for the mounting screws and have at it.

As already mentioned the tape is really only needed if you plan to
remove/replace the fan assembly while the motherboard is still inside the
case. If you always remove the motherboard from the case to replace the CPU
fan assembly then you don't need it.

 

[GlowingBlueMist]

If you need to make a plastic insulator for a mounting plate that
goes under the motherboard here is a suggestion. The plastic from
the side of a gallon milk bottle cuts well with a good pair of
scissors and is quite puncture resistant as well as non-conductive. Cut it
to match the plate, punch the holes needed for the mounting
screws and have at it.
As already mentioned the tape is really only needed if you plan to
remove/replace the fan assembly while the motherboard is still inside
the case. If you always remove the motherboard from the case to
replace the CPU fan assembly then you don't need it.

I meant to add that the tape can also double as an insulator if the mounting
plate is metal or you don't make a plastic insulator to go between the plate
and the motherboard.

 

[Bozothedeathmachine]

Paul wrote:

The plastic from the side of a gallon
milk bottle cuts well with a good pair of scissors and is quite puncture
resistant as well as non-conductive.

Alas, I live in Switzerland, so none of those gallon jugs here. All
the milk's in tetrapaks, and tastes horrible. Thanks for the advice,
it sounds like a good one.

I'm going to try that overhead projector transparency thing above.

Cheers!

 

[~misfit~]

Heatsink adhesive for directly attaching to the CPU. Garbage compared
to better compounds. You risk burning your CPU up without a
replacement. Go over to Newegg and look up CPU thermal paste, and
look around at some hardware sites for how to put the stuff on.

LOL!!! Googletard alert!

There is an 'en vouge' saying; "It takes a villiage to raise a child".

I can now add to that; "It takes a villiage idiot to raise a smile"

Have fun in your own little world and thanks for the chuckles.

 

[Benedict]

Hi, all.

I just got a used LGA 775 CPU and cooler. The backplate for the cooler
was attached to the MB with some kind of tape. I finally got it off,
but destroyed the tape. The tape looked like the insulating anit-
static stuff HW ships in. Is that correct? I'm looking for a
replacement to put it on my new mobo, but can't find it anywhere. Do I
need this stuff, or will normal double-sided tape do? There's some
metal solder exposed on the bottom of the board and I don't want to
short anything by not having proper insulation.

Thanks.

I don't think normal double sided tape (from a stationery shop) is
conductive so yes - it'll be fine.
Plus- all the backplates I've seen on aftermarket coolers were plastic and
therefore non-conductive.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

I just got a used LGA 775 CPU and cooler. The backplate for the cooler
was attached to the MB with some kind of tape. I finally got it off,
but destroyed the tape. The tape looked like the insulating anit-
static stuff HW ships in. Is that correct? I'm looking for a
replacement to put it on my new mobo, but can't find it anywhere. Do I
need this stuff, or will normal double-sided tape do? There's some
metal solder exposed on the bottom of the board and I don't want to
short anything by not having proper insulation.

You want something that's resistant to being pierced (or thicker than
the length of the longest metal thing that sticks up from the circuit
board), non-conductive, and is anti-static. Among commonly available
materials, that leaves non-shiney cardboard (at least 2mm thick),
wood, and PET plastic commonly used as the packing material for stuff
that plugs into the motherboard, like memory modules and graphics
cards (but a few such devices are packed in anti-static Mylar --
translucent white instead of transparent clear).

Tough materials that aren't normally anti-static include ordinary PET
(water and soda bottles, trays for microwavable dinners), Mylar
(transparency sheets, but also sold as rolls of tape), kapton (dark
brown transparent plastic used for insulating transistors from
heatsinks, sold in sheets and in rolls of tape), and polycarbonate
(Lexan).

You can test for static by opening a faucet so it barely puts out a
steady stream, then rub the material against a dry cloth and hold it
near the stream to see how much it deflects the water. Pink bubble
plastic caused less than 1cm of deflection, as did the rectangular
black PET trays for microwavable Healthy Choice brand dinners by
ConAgra. OTOH the round trays for Healthy Choice Steamers caused at
least 2cm of deflection. Nestle's Lean Cuisine dinner trays were in
between. Very scientific.

 

[~misfit~]

I don't think normal double sided tape (from a stationery shop) is
conductive so yes - it'll be fine.
Plus- all the backplates I've seen on aftermarket coolers were
plastic and therefore non-conductive.

.... yet all the backplates I've seen for Socket T (775) have been rather
heavy stainless steel.

Just goes to show.