The PSU was replaced too if I remember correctly.
The important thing here is on how to solve that particular problem.
Problem has been made exponentially more complex due to
shotgunning. They simply kept replacing parts until something
worked. A trained tech first sees the defect before replacing
anything.
After all that work, list the number of components *known* to be
good. The list is empty - classic of what shotgunning does. An empty
list says nothing was accomplished after all that labor and money.
Another foolishly said:
if the computer is getting to a certain point then
it appears that the PSU is good.
More nonsense from those who worship shotgunning. A defective power
supply can boot and operate a computer.
Doors all over a house are sticking. So do you plane down the
doors? Or first check out the building’s foundation. The foundation
of every computer is its power supply 'system'. More than just a
supply. A computer’s foundation is the entire ‘system’.
Only method you have to *definitively* verify power 'system'
integrity is a 3.5 digit multimeter. A device sold where ever hammers
are sold for about the same price. A tool essential to solving
problems such as yours. (Warning - Leythos will attack this poster.
He attacks and promotes shotgunning. If you want a solution, ignore
his attacks. Those who don't know will routinely attack the messenger
rather than provide useful posts.)
Measure DC voltages on any one of purple, red, orange, and yellow
wires where wires enter the nylon connector on motherboard. (This
nylon connector not confused with another two that connect near CPU
and to video controller board). Those 3 digit numbers provide facts
that will not be immediately apparent. Best values are obtained when
the system is under maximum load - accessing all peripherals
simultaneously. IOW play complex video graphics (ie a movie), while
downloading from the internet, while playing a CD-Rom, while
outputting maximum sound, while searching the hard drives, while ...
That is a maximum load necessary to provide useful numbers on the
meter. Or at least create enough load to obtain useful meter
measurements. That means everything is installed and powered when
measuring those 3, 5, and 12 volts wires.
Also useful (but maybe not for your problem) are voltages on the
green and gray wires both before and when power switch is pressed.
Again, post numbers here because those numbers report facts only to
the knowledgeable informed.
Concept is simple. First put the entire power 'system' on a list of
"definitively known good" items. Currently, that list is empty. Once
that 'system' is "definitively good", only then was something
accomplished. Only then move on to other suspects.
