How to Take Better Night Photos

  • Thread starter gary.hendricks.user
  • Start date
T

Tony Polson

Hi all

Here's a great guide for taking better night photos. Very useful for
those who have problems getting sharp pictures at night. Do check it
out:

http://www.basic-digital-photography.com/night-photos


Look elsewhere on this "basic" site and you will find such "basic"
errors as:

"An increment in the f/stop number doubles the amount of light let in,
so f/2.0 lets in twice as much light as f/1.4."

The trouble with this "basic" site is that the information it contains
is less than useless, because it is just plain wrong. Avoid!
 
H

How Bizarre

Here's a great guide for taking better night photos. Very useful for
those who have problems getting sharp pictures at night. Do check it
out:

http://www.basic-digital-photography.com/night-photos

From that link above....."This is how it works. The next time you're out to
take night photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally
would. Then, when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A
again, but with the lens cap on."

Why would you have to be in the exact same Scene A again to take a picture
with the lens cap on?
 
E

erics

How Bizarre said:
From that link above....."This is how it works. The next time you're out
to take night photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you
normally would. Then, when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same
Scene A again, but with the lens cap on."

Why would you have to be in the exact same Scene A again to take a picture
with the lens cap on?

lol.
 
L

Lorem Ipsum

Look elsewhere on this "basic" site and you will find such "basic"
errors as:

"An increment in the f/stop number doubles the amount of light let in,
so f/2.0 lets in twice as much light as f/1.4."

Yep, that site is not only wrong, but dishonest. The picture at the top is
fake beyond belief.

And this: "This is how it works. The next time you're out to take night
photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally would. Then,
when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A again, but with
the lens cap on."

Why take a photo of the exact same scene with the lens cap on? That's
crazy! The camera doesn't care where it is when the lens cap is on!
 
W

W (winhag)

Okay, what am I missing here. If you go from one f/stop to the next
(e.g. f/1.4 to f/2.0 or
f/5.6 to f/8) does not the amount of light 'double' (from an exposure
standpoint the same
way as doubling the exposure time)?
 
D

Daniel W. Rouse Jr.

Lorem Ipsum said:
Yep, that site is not only wrong, but dishonest. The picture at the top is
fake beyond belief.

And this: "This is how it works. The next time you're out to take night
photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally would. Then,
when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A again, but with
the lens cap on."

Why take a photo of the exact same scene with the lens cap on? That's
crazy! The camera doesn't care where it is when the lens cap is on!
It's perfectly understandable to me.

Taking a photo with the lens cap on results in a "null" photo--that is, it's
completely black, except for perhaps any hot pixels.

Taking the "null" photo at more or less the same time as the scene's night
photo reproduces whatever hot pixels would occur at a given
time/temperature/humidity level for a given camera.

The tip subsequently describes masking out the hot pixels using layers,
which is why the photo appears "fake". Masking out the hot pixels means
using photo post processing software, and post-processed photos often look
"too perfect", thus, "fake". There could have also been additional
post-processing being done on that photo, in addition to just masking out
the hot pixels.

(Then again, some cameras with night modes do some sort of in-camera
post-processing of night mode photos, such as taking a second exposure after
the first exposure. The debate over the quality of the camera
post-processing vs. photo post-processing software will not be revisited
here.)

Really, that tip is just explaining how to deal with an obvious camera
defect--hot pixels in night photos--that has been really accepted for far
too long as a "normal" part of digital photography, primarily in the
interest of lower-cost digital cameras.

In all reality, a properly functioning digital camera should have zero
missing or hot pixels on its sensor and on its LCD display.
 
P

Peter Chant

I suspect that the rec.photo.darkroom newsgroup this went to really were not
interested and anyone in the astro newsgroup it went to probally have far
more technical expertise.
 
N

no_name

Lorem said:
Yep, that site is not only wrong, but dishonest. The picture at the top is
fake beyond belief.

And this: "This is how it works. The next time you're out to take night
photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally would. Then,
when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A again, but with
the lens cap on."

Why take a photo of the exact same scene with the lens cap on? That's
crazy! The camera doesn't care where it is when the lens cap is on!

Basic photography for sub-dummies.
 
N

no_name

W said:
Okay, what am I missing here. If you go from one f/stop to the next
(e.g. f/1.4 to f/2.0 or
f/5.6 to f/8) does not the amount of light 'double' (from an exposure
standpoint the same
way as doubling the exposure time)?

It's backwards. Going from f/1.4 to f/2 halves the amount of light you
let in. Go look into your lens while you step through the f/stops.

The "higher" number makes a smaller hole (because it's fractions).

Replace the 'f' with 1 -- 1/2 is smaller than 1/1.4 [which is actually
closer to 1-1/2] --- 1/8 is larger than 1/16, so 1/16 can't let in twice
as much light as 1/8.
 
J

Jack Dale

"Hopefully", someone will come along and edit the text, special
attention to clarity: "...install a tripod with a shutter-release
cable..."? Huh?

I remember when movie camera tripods had a shutter release in the
handle. You could press the cable relase while panning or zooming.
But I am going way back for that memory.
 
K

Kernix

I didn't check out the site, but I don't think I will. How to take
Better night photos.

1st know what your'e doing by understanding the shutter-aperture
relationship

2nd if it's really dark, you're going to have to experiment by leaving
the shutter open on Bulb and do different exposure times. Depending on
what you're shooting, 30 sec, 1 minute, or longer. Real long exposures,
like the ones used where the camera is focused on Polaris for the
circular star shot, may cause color shifts. Which leads us to:

Who knows the best film(s) for loooooong exposure times?

Jim
 
B

Bill Funk

Yep, that site is not only wrong, but dishonest. The picture at the top is
fake beyond belief.

Definitely some interesting water, with light reflections that don't
match.
 
T

Tony

Here is some useful advice on the subject. It was written for film but the
only difference is that one can see the results immediately.
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/techs/mniteshot.html
And here are some specific examples of how to do some typical shots.
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/techs/mmlongood2.html

--
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com
home of The Camera-ist's Manifesto
The Improved Links Pages are at
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/links/mlinks00.html
A sample chapter from "Haight-Ashbury" is at
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/writ/hait/hatitl.html
 
W

William Graham

How Bizarre said:
From that link above....."This is how it works. The next time you're out
to take night photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you
normally would. Then, when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same
Scene A again, but with the lens cap on."

Why would you have to be in the exact same Scene A again to take a picture
with the lens cap on?

Apparently, the author wants to find the bad pixels, and taking the
lightless photo under the same temperature conditions is some kind of
advantage for this. - If this is true, he should have explained this to
avoid confusion.
 

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