Do RAM sinks really help?

[SeaMaid]

Does putting RAM sinks on your memory DIMM modules REALLY help to cool down
your memory and give XP better speed and performance? I'm debating whether
to purchase copper or aluminum RAM sinks to put on my DDRs in the hope that
they might make my DIMMs last longer and work more efficiently.

Windows XP Pro SP2
Corsair "ValueSelect" VS512MB400 (DDR400)
Total system RAM: 1GB (2x512MB)

 

[Homer J Simpson]

Does putting RAM sinks on your memory DIMM modules REALLY help to cool
down your memory and give XP better speed and performance? I'm debating
whether to purchase copper or aluminum RAM sinks to put on my DDRs in the
hope that they might make my DIMMs last longer and work more efficiently.

I know of no way this would speed them system up. How hot are the modules
getting?

N

 

[SeaMaid]

I'm not sure if my DIMMs get hot at all, just looking into ways to keep my
hardware cool and last as long as possible and improve system performance.
There is no air conditioning here, and I am using various fans to cool the
PC. Water cooling is better, but I cannot afford such.

How would I tell how hot my DIMMs are getting? Is there a program that can
tell me this? My mainboard may not have a RAM temp sensor. I cannot find
anything about RAM temp in ABIT EQ or in EVEREST Ultimate, but I did find
the following info.

PAT: Disabled
Dual Channel: Enabled
Memory Timings
- CAS Latency (CL): 2.5T
- RAS to CAS Delay (tRCD): 3T
- RAS Precharge (tRP): 3T
- RAS Active Time (tRAS): 8T
DIMM: 2.66 V
DIMM VT: 1.33 V

Temperatures
- Motherboard: 31C / 88F
- CPU: 33C / 91F
- PWM: 38C / 100F
- HDD0: 40C / 104F
- HDD1: 26C / 79F

Is any of this helpful? Is it possible to learn the temperatures of my
memory DIMMs?

 

[Homer J Simpson]

How would I tell how hot my DIMMs are getting?

I would touch them with my knuckles while they are running. Hopefully your
skin won't stick to them!

You can buy internal fans and temperature monitors for PCs. Where are you
and why is it so hot?

N

 

[SeaMaid]

I am in Fresno, California. Temps can be 106-109 F in summer. That's roughly
113-120 F with the heat index. Swamp coolers help to some degree, but not
very good in 90+ heat. So in summer, I take the side off my case, sit an
oscillating fan on the floor next to it, and that's the only way I can keep
my computer cooled! If only water cooling systems weren't $100 or more!

 

[Homer J Simpson]

I am in Fresno, California. Temps can be 106-109 F in summer. That's
roughly 113-120 F with the heat index. Swamp coolers help to some degree,
but not very good in 90+ heat. So in summer, I take the side off my case,
sit an oscillating fan on the floor next to it, and that's the only way I
can keep my computer cooled! If only water cooling systems weren't $100 or
more!

I would NOT run the system with the case open. That may screw up the air
flow it is designed for. I WOULD consider adding an extra fan to increase
the air movement. Contact the case & mobo makers.

http://tinyurl.com/ahfbp

N

 

[Chuck]

If not installed properly, the heatsinks can make matters worse! In any
event they are not normally needed if you are running at rated FSB speeds,
and have adequate cooling. The heat sink must be in good contact with each
chip. Memory supplied with out heat sinks may not be of uniform chip to chip
height.Years ago, we played with this sort of thing on mil spec boxes, and
tried using several methods. The most successful was to attach copper "Z"
strips to heat sinks bolted to a "cold plate" with a thermally conductive
epoxy, and set the other part of the "Z" spring to be flush with the top of
the IC package to be cooled.
A promising but unsuccessful method ended up working well as a heat sink.
However it required the use of a metal sponge that left little wire pieces
floating around in the box after vibration tests.

 

[SeaMaid]

This is a machine I built myself from the case up. The only thing I did not
do myself was mount the processor and HSF to the mainboard. Mainboard is
Abit AS8. Case is (I think) Raidmax, but it is not designed for 120mm fans.
Two sets of holes in front and two sets in rear for 80mm fans, and one 80mm
fan on the side window. I am shopping for some high quality 80mm fans. Best
prospects are Newegg.com and eBay. The fans must be ball bearing rather than
sleeve bearing, have LONG wires with both 3pin/4pin connectors, and the
highest CFM I can get at 80mm. Power supply is 600w and has two fans in it.

 

[V Green]

This is a machine I built myself from the case up. The only thing I did not
do myself was mount the processor and HSF to the mainboard. Mainboard is
Abit AS8. Case is (I think) Raidmax, but it is not designed for 120mm fans.
Two sets of holes in front and two sets in rear for 80mm fans, and one 80mm
fan on the side window. I am shopping for some high quality 80mm fans. Best
prospects are Newegg.com and eBay. The fans must be ball bearing rather than
sleeve bearing, have LONG wires with both 3pin/4pin connectors, and the
highest CFM I can get at 80mm. Power supply is 600w and has two fans in

it.

For fans, go here:

www.cyberguys.com

They have sleeve, ball-bearing, AND some pricey
"magnetic levitation" fans that are WAAAAY quiet.

They also have a 80mm fan that does 84.1 CFM,
almost 3 times the volume of a std. 80mm. Sounds
like an F-16 tho'

Brand names like Cofan and fair prices.

Don't let stupid things like short wires keep you from
using the best fan for the need. Learn how to solder.

 

[Lilly]

If you are really worried, I agree with adding another fan ...they are
cheap and can't harm anything. I never tried to use one of those heat
sinks. I am sure they are helpful with a mainframes etc. I doubt that they
would make any difference with most PCs'.

Zoned Zombie

(But ... what do I know? -> "Nothing in the world is more dangerous than
a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity","Martin Luther King, Jr.")

 

[Homer J Simpson]

....Years ago, we played with this sort of thing on mil spec boxes, and
tried using several methods. The most successful was to attach copper "Z"
strips to heat sinks bolted to a "cold plate" with a thermally conductive
epoxy, and set the other part of the "Z" spring to be flush with the top
of
the IC package to be cooled.
A promising but unsuccessful method ended up working well as a heat sink.
However it required the use of a metal sponge that left little wire pieces
floating around in the box after vibration tests.

After you bolt a computer to an army truck and drive it over a battlefield
for many hours I hear that a LOT of things wind up on the bottom of the
case!

N

 

[Chuck]

The equipment I mentioned was intended for use on military aircraft. Due to
a miscalibration by a commercial testing lab, we actually tested at ten
times the required levels. The only structural problem noted at test
conclusion was a loose rivet.
Since the equipment is needed only by aircraft that might be subject to
missile attack, high relialibility is needed.