Canon I850 Ink Question

[beezer]

It is actually designeds to continue using until you actually receive an
'xxx Ink is Empty' warning.

Yes, but for refilling, it is not good to let the sponge desaturate
and who knows how long it would sit idle while its drying up and
becoming useless to hold ink.

 

[TR]

Yes, but for refilling, it is not good to let the sponge desaturate
and who knows how long it would sit idle while its drying up and
becoming useless to hold ink.

That brings up a question I have concerning this. If I am going to
have a set of "extra" filled carts sitting by to use when the carts in
the i960 get low, are there any storage specific I should pay
attention to beside making sure I cap the outlets?

BTW, the caps I have will be the caps that came on the OEM carts and I
don't know if any caps come with the unfilled spares I order but I
assume the OEM caps will work on them if they don't provide any with
them.

Regards,
TR

 

[beezer]

That brings up a question I have concerning this. If I am going to
have a set of "extra" filled carts sitting by to use when the carts in
the i960 get low, are there any storage specific I should pay
attention to beside making sure I cap the outlets?

BTW, the caps I have will be the caps that came on the OEM carts and I
don't know if any caps come with the unfilled spares I order but I
assume the OEM caps will work on them if they don't provide any with
them.

Regards,
TR

If you ordered blanks from inkjetgoodies or weink.com then yes, they
come with clip on caps.

Any cap that came with your cartridge will work fine.. hold in place
with rubberbands. Ive never knows any type of cartridge that did not
come with caps.

If you happen to have the need to seal the exit hole without caps, use
some heavy duty duct tape or good quality celophane box tape.

As far as storage, I dont think there are requirements but what I like
to do is lay them on their sides so keep the ink dispursed evening
throughout the sponge and I flip them over to the otherside every
month or so but Im sure none of that is needed.

Laying on the side prior to installing does help in eliminating the
dripping. I do blot the exit ports and bleed them prior to installing
to make sure they are clean and ink is flowing and wipe the inside rip
to ensure there is no dried ink particles that could get into the
head.

When one color is needing replacement, I replace every color wether
its full or not just to keep the cartridges rotated and used.

 

[PC Medic]

The OEM carts for this and all S, i and IP series have a break away twist
off cap which can not be re-attached (unless you care to glue it on!)

 

[Ron Cohen]

Rubber bands work just fine.
--
Ron Cohen

The OEM carts for this and all S, i and IP series have a break away twist
off cap which can not be re-attached (unless you care to glue it on!)

 

[Gayle Faraday]

I've been checking out the link you sent for ink supplies. There only seems
to be one place to get the cleaner for the head which is what I think I need
to try first. I also what to purchase a new set of cartridges in case the
ones I'm using are no good and the fault of my problems.
http://216.219.159.185/clean.html
The above link is one that you sent and seems to be the only one that has a
cleaner for the heads. Do you think their ink is of good quality? If so I
would order the cleaner and refills at the same time.

I don't want to order a lot of ink till I know I can get the printer
working.
Gayle

 

[beezer]

Rubber bands work just fine.

They sure do.

 

[beezer]

I've been checking out the link you sent for ink supplies. There only seems
to be one place to get the cleaner for the head which is what I think I need
to try first. I also what to purchase a new set of cartridges in case the
ones I'm using are no good and the fault of my problems.
http://216.219.159.185/clean.html
The above link is one that you sent and seems to be the only one that has a
cleaner for the heads. Do you think their ink is of good quality? If so I
would order the cleaner and refills at the same time.

I don't want to order a lot of ink till I know I can get the printer
working.
Gayle

Ok well you truely can use windex for your cleaning purposes. Make
sure its the type that has amonia. Give that a whirl. If you have a
syringe laying around, find a stray or tubing that you can glue to it
that would allow you to create the cleaning technique per the
instructions....

I highly highly suggest you do not use the ink you have in there now.
As I mentioned earlier, you should absolutely not use generic inks in
the printer. Your next clog from them may end up burning the head up
beyond repair...

Order yourself a small bulk ink kit from one of the reputable sources
that people highly suggest here.

also, you may want to get the blank cartridges as Ive suggested
earlier to fill with the fresh bulk ink that you should get.

 

[beezer]

The OEM carts for this and all S, i and IP series have a break away twist
off cap which can not be re-attached (unless you care to glue it on!)

Thats silly

 

[PC Medic]

Thats silly

What's silly ???? The fact that someone thinks you can place these break
away caps back on forming the needed air tight seal (which you can not). I
don't find it half as silly as forcing harsh cleaners into the intake ports
on a precision printhead. Amazes me how many will do this and then post in
these groups about the poor print quality they experienced with their brand
XXX printer.
Or advice like don't by the generics, but instead get the bulk inks
recommended by people here in the newsgroup. If you are buying bulk non OEM,
you are buying generic.

 

[Gayle Faraday]

Maybe I'm using the wrong term when I say generic ink. It was cartiridges
that were made for Cannon printers and supposedly Cannon ink. Since it
wasn't Genuinue Cannon cartridges I referred to them as "generics." I order
the cartridges for cleaning the printer from the site you posted. I didn't
order any ink since I thought I better just make sure I can get the printer
going first. I'm keeping my fingers crossed since the place where I work
closed so I'm out of a job for now and won't have the extra money for a
printer. :-(
I appreciate all the help I've received for this group. I'll let you know
how I make out.

Gayle

 

[beezer]

What's silly ???? The fact that someone thinks you can place these break
away caps back on forming the needed air tight seal (which you can not). I
don't find it half as silly as forcing harsh cleaners into the intake ports
on a precision printhead. Amazes me how many will do this and then post in
these groups about the poor print quality they experienced with their brand
XXX printer.
Or advice like don't by the generics, but instead get the bulk inks
recommended by people here in the newsgroup. If you are buying bulk non OEM,
you are buying generic.

Buying proven generics that are formulated and matched to meet the
standards of OEM ink is completely different than buying inks that
claim to work in ALL printers...

You do not know what you buy with those "Works in all printers" inks.
Are they pigmented, too thick, too thin? who knows. If you buy
formulabs ink which is proven time and time again, thats a different
story.

Used caps reinstalled with rubberbands offer as much or more
compression as the original seal. Surely after 16 months of use I
would have noticed leaking or drying if they were not.

People don't want to buy a new printhead due to a difficult clog or
brand new OEM ink when they run out. What they do want in here is
economical refilling information and proven repair techniques.

People come here for solutions to lower their cost of operation or
perhaps fix their mistakes of buying unproven inks that cause
clogging. They do not come here to be told to buy retail OEM products
for their printers, thats a no brainer.

 

[Ron Cohen]

What's silly ???? The fact that someone thinks you can place these break
away caps back on forming the needed air tight seal (which you can not). I
don't find it half as silly as forcing harsh cleaners into the intake ports
on a precision printhead. Amazes me how many will do this and then post in
these groups about the poor print quality they experienced with their brand
XXX printer.
Or advice like don't by the generics, but instead get the bulk inks
recommended by people here in the newsgroup. If you are buying bulk non OEM,
you are buying generic.

Thanks for setting all of us straight about the the caps. If you hadn't
given us the final and authoratative word, most of us would have blissfully
gone on our ignorant and uninformed path of successfully reusing the caps
and holding them on with rubber bands. I guess we'll all just have to quit
doing what has worked for years and only buy new OEM cartridges. How could
we have been so stupid?

Now, can you also explain why bulk ink from a known quality source equals
generic? Do you mean generic in the sense that all ink regardless of the
intended printer model comes from the same batch? Or do you mean generic as
in it has the same properties and formulation as OEM, but is manufactured by
a third party? Is that any different than with pharmaceuticals? Is there a
difference between brand name products Advil and Motrin vs. ibuprofen or
Benedryl vs. dyphenhydramine?

 

[PC Medic]

Buying proven generics that are formulated and matched to meet the
standards of OEM ink is completely different than buying inks that
claim to work in ALL printers...

You do not know what you buy with those "Works in all printers" inks.
Are they pigmented, too thick, too thin? who knows. If you buy
formulabs ink which is proven time and time again, thats a different
story.

Agreed, in the respect that no ink can possibly be formulated to provide
'optimum' results in all printers as there are different delivery methods in
use and even in the printers that use heat different temp requirements based
on drop size. I will also agree that many are successful with their use of
3rd party inks for varying lengths of time. From experience though I have
witnessed more failures from those that use them than those that do not.

Used caps reinstalled with rubberbands offer as much or more
compression as the original seal. Surely after 16 months of use I
would have noticed leaking or drying if they were not.



People don't want to buy a new printhead due to a difficult clog or
brand new OEM ink when they run out. What they do want in here is
economical refilling information and proven repair techniques.

People come here for solutions to lower their cost of operation or
perhaps fix their mistakes of buying unproven inks that cause
clogging. They do not come here to be told to buy retail OEM products
for their printers, thats a no brainer.

People come here to get solutions yes, saying they come here looking for 3rd
party ink is plain wrong. Many in fact are not aware till they come here and
someone tries to peddal their wares to them that they even exist.

 

[beezer]

Agreed, in the respect that no ink can possibly be formulated to provide
'optimum' results in all printers as there are different delivery methods in
use and even in the printers that use heat different temp requirements based
on drop size. I will also agree that many are successful with their use of
3rd party inks for varying lengths of time. From experience though I have
witnessed more failures from those that use them than those that do not.

I am sure that is true. Afterall, television commercials, websites and
department stores offer kits that consumers are more readily to
purchase which may lead to failure.

People come here to get solutions yes, saying they come here looking for 3rd
party ink is plain wrong. Many in fact are not aware till they come here and
someone tries to peddal their wares to them that they even exist.

I can not fully agree to that statement. I answered many posts from
people looking for ink cost relief. This is due to the fact that
refilling a printer with OEM inks result in 50 percent or more of the
retail cost of a new printer which is rediculous.

To help lighten the cost burden, myself and many others highly
recommend several distributors that offer these high quality inks at a
much lower cost than OEM. Time and time again, these inks provide
fantastic quality and perormance.

I certainly respect your opinons and experience of recommending OEM
products and supplies but quite frankly, I for one could not afford
them. I purchase proven papers at a mere cost of 30 cent per sheet
and inks at $3 per refill. I could not afford to purchase $60 of ink
per month along with $50 worth of paper.

Honestly, I never had a clog and I like the printer run its own
cleaning sequence. I do not initialize manual maintenance at all.

I did keep all my test photos (many many of them) from my OEM ink when
the printer was new. I continually compare the same photos and so far
my non OEM paper and ink still look as good as OEM paper and ink 18
months later.

Do I care if they last 30 yrs? naw. Im sure I will be reprinting as I
always do when new technology becomes available.

 

[PC Medic]

Thanks for setting all of us straight about the the caps. If you hadn't
given us the final and authoratative word, most of us would have blissfully
gone on our ignorant and uninformed path of successfully reusing the caps
and holding them on with rubber bands. I guess we'll all just have to quit
doing what has worked for years and only buy new OEM cartridges. How could
we have been so stupid?

Your words not mine.
My response was prompted by several statements that you can place the cap
back on achieving the *same* air tight seal. This is simply NOT true. While
you may infact be using a rubber band, tape, nail gun or what ever you
choose to re attach the cap it is NOT as air tight as the original seal.

Now, can you also explain why bulk ink from a known quality source equals
generic? Do you mean generic in the sense that all ink regardless of the
intended printer model comes from the same batch? Or do you mean generic as
in it has the same properties and formulation as OEM, but is manufactured by
a third party? Is that any different than with pharmaceuticals? Is there a
difference between brand name products Advil and Motrin vs. ibuprofen or
Benedryl vs. dyphenhydramine?

I can not explain why bulk ink from a known quality source *equals* generic
because not all inks are equal.
I can tell you that if you purchase an ink that is not contained in the
OEM's cartridge or tank (at least in the case of Canon) then you are buying
generic (also referred to as 3rd Party). This is because they do not sell
their ink in bulk to outside vendors so anything else would be a knock off
and not the original. In many cases YES the generics state they will work in
various models and manufactures printers. This IMO would definitely be one
to avoid as anyone that knows printers knows there are different delivery
methods of the ink from the printhead and therefore no 'one ink fits all'
solution. To answer this part of your question though I was referring to 3rd
party inks that claim to have the same properties and formulations as the
OEM. Each manufacture spends enormous amounts of money in to printhead
design and exacting formulation of an ink to provide optimum results with
that printhead on a given paper. Needless to say these formulas are well
guarded. So while they may be close to the OEM they are no more the SAME
than Coke or Pepsi.
As for your comparison with pharmaceuticals, sometimes there is NO
difference, sometimes there is. This is a totally different area with
different regulations and yes some actually license their formula to others.
Not the case with the Canon ink.

 

[Hipster]

I can not explain why bulk ink from a known quality source *equals*
generic because not all inks are equal.
I can tell you that if you purchase an ink that is not contained in
the OEM's cartridge or tank (at least in the case of Canon) then you
are buying generic (also referred to as 3rd Party). This is because
they do not sell their ink in bulk to outside vendors so anything else
would be a knock off and not the original. In many cases YES the
generics state they will work in various models and manufactures
printers. This IMO would definitely be one to avoid as anyone that
knows printers knows there are different delivery methods of the ink
from the printhead and therefore no 'one ink fits all' solution. To
answer this part of your question though I was referring to 3rd party
inks that claim to have the same properties and formulations as the
OEM. Each manufacture spends enormous amounts of money in to printhead
design and exacting formulation of an ink to provide optimum results
with that printhead on a given paper. Needless to say these formulas
are well guarded. So while they may be close to the OEM they are no
more the SAME than Coke or Pepsi.
As for your comparison with pharmaceuticals, sometimes there is NO
difference, sometimes there is. This is a totally different area with
different regulations and yes some actually license their formula to
others. Not the case with the Canon ink.

As far as I know neither Canon (nor anyone else for that matter)
make their own inks. They're all manufactured by large (yes, 3rd
party) commercial ink manufactures to each printer manufacturer's
specifications. These commercial ink manufacturers are the experts
in the printing ink field, not printer makers. They obviously work
with the printer makers to come up with a stable formula.

Naturally, the formula is under licence and thus can't be sold
to wholesalers. But nothing stops them from altering the formula
a trace to make sales to wholesalers legit. Formulabs has often
been mentioned as one of these companies.

 

[George E. Cawthon]

Thanks for setting all of us straight about the the caps. If you hadn't
given us the final and authoratative word, most of us would have blissfully
gone on our ignorant and uninformed path of successfully reusing the caps
and holding them on with rubber bands. I guess we'll all just have to quit
doing what has worked for years and only buy new OEM cartridges. How could
we have been so stupid?

Now, can you also explain why bulk ink from a known quality source equals
generic? Do you mean generic in the sense that all ink regardless of the
intended printer model comes from the same batch? Or do you mean generic as
in it has the same properties and formulation as OEM, but is manufactured by
a third party? Is that any different than with pharmaceuticals? Is there a
difference between brand name products Advil and Motrin vs. ibuprofen or
Benedryl vs. dyphenhydramine?

Ah, you missed another one of those nonsense arguments, specifically
that the same model brand name refrigerator sold by K-Mart or other
mass marketer is inferior to the machine bought at an upscales
appliance or home furnishing store.

 

[PC Medic]

Ah, you missed another one of those nonsense arguments, specifically
that the same model brand name refrigerator sold by K-Mart or other
mass marketer is inferior to the machine bought at an upscales
appliance or home furnishing store.

Ahh but in the case of inks you are NOT buying SAME make, brand, model.
In your example if you are then great, but that is RARELY the case as there
is usually some small change made to the product spec. In that type of
product though the change made has little impact on operation and often may
only be something in the line of only a 1 yr vs 3 yr warranty for example.

Let me also set something straight for all of you defensive 3rd party ink
marketers posing as 'I use it all the time it's great' consumers. I was not
knocking the use of 3rd party ink (though I do not use the stuff) there are
some good quality generics/3rd parties out there. I was simply pointing out
inaccuracies in the 'it's the exact same product' type statements. It is
misleading to those that do not know there is in fact a difference in
formulation and that it may have impact on quality or performance.

 

[PC Medic]

As far as I know neither Canon (nor anyone else for that matter)
make their own inks. They're all manufactured by large (yes, 3rd
party) commercial ink manufactures to each printer manufacturer's
specifications. These commercial ink manufacturers are the experts
in the printing ink field, not printer makers. They obviously work
with the printer makers to come up with a stable formula.

Well here is your first problem, Canon (and one other I know of) do in fact
develope and produce their own inks.

Naturally, the formula is under licence and thus can't be sold
to wholesalers. But nothing stops them from altering the formula
a trace to make sales to wholesalers legit. Formulabs has often
been mentioned as one of these companies.

But as I have said already and you have just stated yourself, they alter the
formula. This means it is not the exact same quality as the OEM. And yes
when it comes to a 'slight' difference in ink formula, the results can be
significant.