Buying OEM vs Retail Parts

[polypheus]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

(Please reply to newsgroup. Listed email is invalid.)

 

[Dave C.]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

(Please reply to newsgroup. Listed email is invalid.)

Sometimes optical drives include nice burning software (or other software)
in the retail package that is not in the OEM package. But even some of the
OEM packages have the same software. That's the only possible advantage I
can see to buying retail of any of those parts you listed. -Dave

 

[NoSoup4me]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

(Please reply to newsgroup. Listed email is invalid.)

Well, I recently bought a lot of stuff (CPU, RAM, HD, CDRW, XP) that was
OEM. As another poster stated, some OEM CDRW's don't come with the retail
software, but mine did (Nero Exress and PowerDVD).

As for the other stuff, it's all a matter of warranty and what's in the
package. From Newegg, if you buy an OEM CPU, you won't get a hsf and your
warranty will only be 3 months. Whereas if you bought a retail CPU, you'd
get the hsf and a warranty for a few years.

As I said, I bought mostly OEM and I haven't had any problems.

 

[Al Dykes]

Sometimes optical drives include nice burning software (or other software)
in the retail package that is not in the OEM package. But even some of the
OEM packages have the same software. That's the only possible advantage I
can see to buying retail of any of those parts you listed. -Dave

Re: bundled software with EOM CD burners, I was unable to tell if
cheap CD writers came with software. Newegg.com has photographs if
item in the online catalog, which is useful when buying PC cases, but
on a hunch I found a no-name CD writer for (i recall) $40 and clicked
on detail/pictures and there was a picture of the CD drive, the
cables, and a Nero CD. nowhere in the text did it say it came with
software. All the other cheap CDR drives I loked at all had software.

Don't presume that your dealer bundles, or that newegg bundels, this
week. Check for yourself.

 

[Sal Monella]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

(Please reply to newsgroup. Listed email is invalid.)

I bought my motherboard and processor retail and everything else OEM. My
Lite On OEM drives came with the necessary software while some others I
looked at did not, so be aware of that.

 

[Larc]

On 11 Feb 2004 16:54:06 -0800, polypheus pondered exceedingly, then took quill
in hand and carefully composed...

| For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
| versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?
|
| Motherboard
| Processor
| Memory
| Hard Drive
| Video Card
| DVD/CD Writer
| Windows OS
|
| If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
| dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
| perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
| advice?

Retail processors usually come with heatsinks and fans while OEMs don't. Unless
you're planning on purchasing a separate cooling setup anyway, overall cost of
buying an OEM processor could be greater than buying the retail version.

OEM hard drives don't come with cables and OEM DVD/CD writers don't come with
cables or blank media. The seller sometimes supports warranties on OEM items,
but some of them have worked out deals with the manufacturers. It's not unusual
for OEM memory and hard drives to be supported by the manufacturers as if they
were retail.

OEM Windows is tied to the original installation and isn't supposed to be
transferred to another computer for any reason. Also, there's no free support
from Microsoft — whatever that's worth. I've found the Microsoft public
newsgroups to be far better sources for problem solving.

Larc



§§§ - Please change planet to earth to reply by e-mail - §§§

 

[Uncooked meat prior to state vector collapse]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

(Please reply to newsgroup. Listed email is invalid.)

Last time I tried to "save a few dollars" and bought OEM, I got a re-marked
CPU sold as a P2-300 (was actually a P2-266). Didn't find out until 3 months
later when the CPU stopped working and I noticed the HS/F clip had rubbed
off the fake marking on the chip's slot carrier. I think Intel locked
multipliers around that time, probably due in part to those pesky
counterfeiters. Regardless, I am all retail... for good.

 

[Kill Bill]

Last time I tried to "save a few dollars" and bought OEM, I got a re-marked
CPU sold as a P2-300 (was actually a P2-266). Didn't find out until 3 months
later when the CPU stopped working and I noticed the HS/F clip had rubbed
off the fake marking on the chip's slot carrier. I think Intel locked
multipliers around that time, probably due in part to those pesky
counterfeiters. Regardless, I am all retail... for good.

Maybe you just shouldn't shop at the crap-hole outfit you bought the cpu
from ....

 

[Uncooked meat prior to state vector collapse]

Maybe you just shouldn't shop at the crap-hole outfit you bought the cpu
from ....

Yes, the lesson learned was two-fold... I had bought it at a local computer
show. Was the last time I bought from an outfit like that. It may be unfair
for me to shine-off OEM parts because of one shady dealer, but the few
dollars difference is more than worth it for my peace of mind.

 

[nooneimportant]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Hard Drive
Video Card
DVD/CD Writer
Windows OS

If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks for any help!

For the most part i prefer to buy OEM... take hard drives for example.. in a
retail box you will get the hard drive, usually an el crapo software suite
that is eather ill featured (or not full featured unless you pay more), and
a basic cable, and a REALLY NIFTY installation guide. And you will usually
pay handsomly for those extra goodies. Now look at OEM drives... you get
just that, THE DRIVE. For the most part either your motherboard came with
the cables, or you have dozens of them laying aronud. I picked up a SATA
WD120GB "Special edition" with the 8mb cache OEM for right near 100 bux a
couple weeks ago. Go to the "big box retailer" and look at prices on retail
drives... and for 30 bux more you see a "similar" drive that does not have
SATA capability, and comes with just a few extra goodies that you probably
already have. Same goes for optical drives... can get oem floppies for
around 5 bux vs 25bux retail... list goes on. Only difference is that there
isn't a pretty box or cabling included, and USUALLY no software.. (however
my OEM lite-on Optical drives did ship with roxiocdburner and a dvd suite).
On a build i will usually get RETAIL processor and mobo (to get the
accessories like heatsink/hdd cables/etc) then go OEM for almost everything
else. Works out to a decent savings. PLUS some software is available OEM
now if you buy it in combination with OEM hardware (think newegg does that
with Microsoft OS's but i haven't tried it yet). Usually chop at least 20%
off retail price on software if its available as OEM(tho legally it is TIED
to the hardware you purchased, if the hardware goes, so must the software if
you follow it to the letter).

 

[nooneimportant]

For the most part i prefer to buy OEM... take hard drives for example.. in a
retail box you will get the hard drive, usually an el crapo software suite
that is eather ill featured (or not full featured unless you pay more), and
a basic cable, and a REALLY NIFTY installation guide. And you will usually
pay handsomly for those extra goodies. Now look at OEM drives... you get
just that, THE DRIVE. For the most part either your motherboard came with
the cables, or you have dozens of them laying aronud. I picked up a SATA
WD120GB "Special edition" with the 8mb cache OEM for right near 100 bux a
couple weeks ago. Go to the "big box retailer" and look at prices on retail
drives... and for 30 bux more you see a "similar" drive that does not have
SATA capability, and comes with just a few extra goodies that you probably
already have. Same goes for optical drives... can get oem floppies for
around 5 bux vs 25bux retail... list goes on. Only difference is that there
isn't a pretty box or cabling included, and USUALLY no software.. (however
my OEM lite-on Optical drives did ship with roxiocdburner and a dvd suite).
On a build i will usually get RETAIL processor and mobo (to get the
accessories like heatsink/hdd cables/etc) then go OEM for almost everything
else. Works out to a decent savings. PLUS some software is available OEM
now if you buy it in combination with OEM hardware (think newegg does that
with Microsoft OS's but i haven't tried it yet). Usually chop at least 20%
off retail price on software if its available as OEM(tho legally it is TIED
to the hardware you purchased, if the hardware goes, so must the software if
you follow it to the letter).

### CORRECTION ### CERWW software was nero... not roxio... ###/correction###

 

[nooneimportant]

email is invalid.)

Last time I tried to "save a few dollars" and bought OEM, I got a re-marked
CPU sold as a P2-300 (was actually a P2-266). Didn't find out until 3 months
later when the CPU stopped working and I noticed the HS/F clip had rubbed
off the fake marking on the chip's slot carrier. I think Intel locked
multipliers around that time, probably due in part to those pesky
counterfeiters. Regardless, I am all retail... for good.

Ive run into that before at "swap meets" and low end computer discounters.
Always thougt computers were supposed to be buggy as hell till I went for
more "reputable" dealers like newegg, after a brief series of two
manufacured pcs (at the time were actually cheaper, not anymore). Ive
learned my lesson... it may cost more to go from a reputable dealer like
newegg vs the local "chop shop" you get much better quality, stability, and
performacnce as a general rule.

 

[BarryNL]

Well, I recently bought a lot of stuff (CPU, RAM, HD, CDRW, XP) that was
OEM. As another poster stated, some OEM CDRW's don't come with the retail
software, but mine did (Nero Exress and PowerDVD).

I'd be careful spending extra to get this software. I believe Nero is
always the full package, but the version of PowerDVD that comes with
retail kit is a crippled version that won't handle 5.1 sound. Of couse,
if you're happy playing DVDs in just stereo...

 

[mcheu]

:

OEM hard drives don't come with cables and OEM DVD/CD writers don't come with
cables or blank media. The seller sometimes supports warranties on OEM items,
but some of them have worked out deals with the manufacturers. It's not unusual
for OEM memory and hard drives to be supported by the manufacturers as if they
were retail.

Larc

Retail hard drive kits rarely come with cables either. SCSI and IDE
cables are typically supplied with the motherboard or have to be
purchased separately. Some kits do indeed supply you with a cable,
but you can't count on getting a cable just because it's boxed. Some
of the "kits" just come with an install guide, screws, the drive, and
some software -- which can often be downloaded.

As for the OEM drives being supported by manufacturers, what you're
thinking of is "bulk" drives. These are bare drives that have a
manufacturer warranty. The biggest problem I've encountered is that
the terms are used interchangeably in some stores, and in those cases,
there can be a lot of finger pointing as to how the warranty is
handled -- it's best to ask who's responsible for it before you buy.
True OEM drives still have to go through the store for an RMA. Bulk
drives require you to deal directly with the manufacturer, as with the
retail ones.

Assuming that a reputeable store is involved, I usually prefer the OEM
style warranty for hard drives. The manufacturer to OEM (store)
warranty period is a year, and if the store passes that along, you get
the about the same warranty coverage as the retail drive. The big
advantage is that the shipping and paperwork for RMA'ing the drive
would be done by the store in those cases. With some stores, they'll
even let you do a direct swap rather than waiting for the RMA to work
through, but most stores won't do that anymore.

 

[polypheus]

For the most part i prefer to buy OEM... take hard drives for example.. in a
retail box you will get the hard drive, usually an el crapo software suite
that is eather ill featured (or not full featured unless you pay more), and
a basic cable, and a REALLY NIFTY installation guide. And you will usually
pay handsomly for those extra goodies. Now look at OEM drives... you get
just that, THE DRIVE. For the most part either your motherboard came with
the cables, or you have dozens of them laying aronud. I picked up a SATA
WD120GB "Special edition" with the 8mb cache OEM for right near 100 bux a
couple weeks ago. Go to the "big box retailer" and look at prices on retail
drives... and for 30 bux more you see a "similar" drive that does not have
SATA capability, and comes with just a few extra goodies that you probably
already have. Same goes for optical drives...

.. <snipped>

But if the hard drive doesn't come with software, how do you format
and partition the drive. You'd have to buy that software separately
which would almost eliminate the savings of buying an OEM hard drive.

 

[Dave C.]

But if the hard drive doesn't come with software, how do you format
and partition the drive. You'd have to buy that software separately
which would almost eliminate the savings of buying an OEM hard drive.

Ummmmm . . . with the OS? Most operating systems install from bootable
CD-Rom now. During that installation process, you will allow the OS to
partition and format for you, or specify how you want the OS to partition
and format for you. In the old days, you were a fool if you didn't have a
few bootable OS floppy disks on hand to be used specifically for
partitioning and formatting a new hard drive.

The only reason you need the software that comes with the drive is if (for
some odd reason) the BIOS doesn't recognize the drive. In that case, you
should really flass the BIOS to a later version or use software that comes
from the motherboard vendor. The software that comes with the hard drive
should only be used as a last resort. -Dave

 

[nooneimportant]

">

But if the hard drive doesn't come with software, how do you format
and partition the drive. You'd have to buy that software separately
which would almost eliminate the savings of buying an OEM hard drive.

Name an operating system that does not include formatting software.....

WinXP for one can boot from the cd and partition/format... Most linux
distros include a CD bootable that has partition/format software on it...
there are many places found out there that have bootable floppies with
fdisk/format on them to download.... so why do you need software to be
included wiht the drive? And if you MUST have the LLformat utilites you
can usually download them from the manufactures website (tho i haven't had
to LLformat/recertify a drive in years!) The little disk that comes with
SOME retail drives just includes some very basic software that isnt
necessary UNLESS you are using a larger drive then the MOBO/OS can
recognise(and even then you can usually download that same software for free
from the website), and if you are building a new machine, that wont be an
issue anyway. Believe it or not i built my entire system, and had it up and
running within 2 hours of opening the boxes, and i only used the winXP pro
cd.. course i later went used other disks to get best drivers installed...
but even then i could have just downloaded the newest version of the driver
for free. Not once did i have to use ANY other disk to get the hard disk
going, (and it is SATA in winXP.. didn't need the "special" drivers, course
its not RAID tho). And even if you were to set HD's up in a RAID array...
the array managment software is provided with your raid controller and has
nothing really to do with the hard disk itself, just need to "press f6 for
raid...." during setup of windows and pop in a floppy with the controllers
driver (not the hard disks)... So again... why do i need software to be
provided with an OEM hard disk?

 

[Sal Monella]

. <snipped>

But if the hard drive doesn't come with software, how do you format
and partition the drive. You'd have to buy that software separately
which would almost eliminate the savings of buying an OEM hard drive.

If you don't know how to do that then you probably shouldn't be buying
OEM anyway.

 

[Matt]

For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?

Hard Drive

When you buy a retail-boxed WD drive, you know it has been well packaged
since it left the factory. A bulk-packaged drive can more easily be
damaged during shipping and handling by the retailer, since it is part
of the time handled without any packaging. The same may be true for
other components.

 

[Al Dykes]

When you buy a retail-boxed WD drive, you know it has been well packaged
since it left the factory. A bulk-packaged drive can more easily be
damaged during shipping and handling by the retailer, since it is part
of the time handled without any packaging. The same may be true for
other components.

Disks are much more robust than people think. Picking a random disk
model on the Western Digital web site, I find that a WD caviar can
take 250G (non operating) and 65G when in operation.

250G is _a lot_ of shock. bubble wrap in a decent box will
provide plenty of protection. Worry about shipping for big CRT
monitors.

EOM "bulk package" to me means, at the extreme, little more than a
cardboard sleeve, but you wouldn't ship like that. It goes in
a shipping box, wrapped in something.

WD Caviar environental specs:
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/Products.asp?DriveID=41&Lang=1