How many generic ATX PSU types are there ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Al Dykes
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A

Al Dykes

For a repair shop (the trunk of my car) can anyone show me a list of
PSU form-factor variations that will give me spares for most (95% ?)
of the modern desktop PCs I'll find.

Has Dell gotten away from proprietary PSU sizes ?

Thanks.
 
For a repair shop (the trunk of my car) can anyone show me a list of
PSU form-factor variations that will give me spares for most (95% ?)
of the modern desktop PCs I'll find.
95%? Standard ATX.
 
95%? Standard ATX.


I'm talking about mechanical dimensions. Are there not a couple varieties
of sizes and I see there are new ATX mobo connectors. ATX 2.0?

I'm looking for a short list of PSUs to have spares on-hand.

Looking at PC Power & Cooling * see that there are 4 models. But
that's Dell.

I'm *not* talking about small form factor computers but the PCP&C site
shows a "1U" PSU.

Is that for rack systems, SFF, or maybe both.
 
I'm talking about mechanical dimensions. Are there not a couple varieties
of sizes and I see there are new ATX mobo connectors. ATX 2.0?

I'm looking for a short list of PSUs to have spares on-hand.

Looking at PC Power & Cooling * see that there are 4 models. But
that's Dell.

I'm *not* talking about small form factor computers but the PCP&C site
shows a "1U" PSU.

Is that for rack systems, SFF, or maybe both.

The ATX and EPS standards are described here:
ATX http://www.formfactors.org
EPS http://ssiforum.org
(EPS is mostly used with multi-cpu pc servers though.)


I'd expect most of todays generic desktops to use ATX12V v2.x type PSU:s
but some PC brands may want to roll their own for mechanics and connectors.

The older ATX12V v1.3 was mainly a +5V supply, but ATX12V v2.x has more
+12V power, so it depends if you replace in an older PC or a newer.
Some PSU:s include adaptors for older connectors (AT type), but the load
balancing may still be wrong for the system.

If one upgrades a box from an old pentium mobo to a P4, and/or changes
to a powerhungry graphics card, while keping an older PSU, it's possible
it gets overloaded & breaks, and they'd need a later ATX version
replacement. (Homebuilders would probably know enough to get their own
PSU, not needing repairmen though.)

So do you expect to replace PSU:s on *new* PC:s or on old PC:s?
Which ones break more often? I'd guess it's both ends of the spectrum,
only the older PC:s get replaced, not repaired?

/Rolf
 
The ATX and EPS standards are described here:
ATX http://www.formfactors.org
EPS http://ssiforum.org
(EPS is mostly used with multi-cpu pc servers though.)


I'd expect most of todays generic desktops to use ATX12V v2.x type PSU:s
but some PC brands may want to roll their own for mechanics and connectors.

The older ATX12V v1.3 was mainly a +5V supply, but ATX12V v2.x has more
+12V power, so it depends if you replace in an older PC or a newer.
Some PSU:s include adaptors for older connectors (AT type), but the load
balancing may still be wrong for the system.

If one upgrades a box from an old pentium mobo to a P4, and/or changes
to a powerhungry graphics card, while keping an older PSU, it's possible
it gets overloaded & breaks, and they'd need a later ATX version
replacement. (Homebuilders would probably know enough to get their own
PSU, not needing repairmen though.)

So do you expect to replace PSU:s on *new* PC:s or on old PC:s?
Which ones break more often? I'd guess it's both ends of the spectrum,
only the older PC:s get replaced, not repaired?

/Rolf

Thanks. I just want a couple factory-fresh PSUs on hand so when a dead
machine comes in I can do what we always do first, swap the PSU.

If a fat desktop came in, a new PSU would show different systems even
if it was under-sized for a permenant fix. I could oreder one knowing
that would be the solution.
 
I'm talking about mechanical dimensions.

Yeah..they have to be the same otherwise they're not ATX.

ATX is a form factor.
Are there not a couple varieties
of sizes and I see there are new ATX mobo connectors. ATX 2.0?

I'm looking for a short list of PSUs to have spares on-hand.

Looking at PC Power & Cooling * see that there are 4 models. But
that's Dell.

I'm *not* talking about small form factor computers but the PCP&C site
shows a "1U" PSU.
Go to the shop. Buy a ATX PSU with a 20 pin motherboard connector and
buy one with a 24 pin motherboard connector. Make sure they're decent
and around 400W.

Jesus, its a ****ing no brainer. If you're having this much grief
trying to figure out what to carry, are you sure you're up to repairing
PCs?
 
Thanks. I just want a couple factory-fresh PSUs on hand so when a dead
machine comes in I can do what we always do first, swap the PSU.
ROFL - the dumbass sledgehammer method. Personally I check the fuse in
the plug first.
 
ROFL - the dumbass sledgehammer method. Personally I check the fuse in
the plug first.

This is the US. We don't have fuses in the wall power cable, which is
what I think you're referring to.

I've replaces about 100 PSUs over the years, split between AT and
first generation ATX. I've been away from this for a couple years and
just saw an ATX cable with mobo plugs that were new to me so I thought
I'd ask.
 
This is the US. We don't have fuses in the wall power cable, which is
what I think you're referring to.
Oh dear...thats worrying. Do you have alot of electrical fires?
 
Conor said:
Oh dear...thats worrying. Do you have alot of electrical fires?

No, because U.S. mains are a fused/breakered low wattage, by comparison
(average 1.2KW to 1.8Kw), star configuration, rather than a high volt, high
wattage, ring and secondary fuse/current limiters are in the device rather
than the plug.
 
No, because U.S. mains are a fused/breakered low wattage, by comparison
(average 1.2KW to 1.8Kw), star configuration, rather than a high volt, high
wattage, ring and secondary fuse/current limiters are in the device rather
than the plug.
Aha.
 
Not that I've noticed :-) (there is a fuse in a panel for each string
of power outlets.)
Same as here but Dave Maynard has just told me about the difference in
the power running.
 
Conor said:

Having said that, the plug/power cord is still the weakest link in the U.S.
system as the 1.2 to 1.8kw power capacity of the outlet is quite enough to
start fires with a defective cord/plug, although that tends to be more of a
shock hazard than fire because it's dern rare to have a 'partial short' in
a cord that wouldn't trip the 10-15 amp breaker. (much bigger fire hazard
was the copper/aluminum incompatible wiring problem back in the 70's)

On the other hand, since U.S. devices have always come with the proper
power plug/cord, and the fuse/current limiter is in the device, there's
less concern about people using oversized fuses like one might do with a
fused power plug (easier than finding a fuse the 'right' size).

The other potential heat source, loose wire connection in the plug, doesn't
exist in modern U.S. molded plugs (older equipment, say pre 1950s or so,
did have screws though).
 
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