Re: HP Pavillion a712n desktop problem

Discussion in 'Computer Hardware' started by Paul, Dec 8, 2011.

  1. Paul

    Paul Guest

    Rboats wrote:
    > How to remove on/off button and troubleshoot or replace. Currently it
    > sticks when pushed in, it would sometimes pop back to regular "on"
    > postion and power up and process..now it will power up but won't
    > processs, sometimes get the error screen that that starts the countdown
    > to start in normal mode but after countdown to zero..nothing happens,,
    > I'm not a comp wiz but a all around DIY'er with everything else so now
    > it's computer time. Just don't want to destroy any components while
    > trouble shooting. Think I just need to replace On/OFF button. Any help
    > greatly appreciated. Thanks,Randy


    The front panel of your computer, will have four or five twisted pair
    wire things, coming from the panel to the motherboard "PANEL" header.

    On my computer, the wiring looks like this. Separate wire pairs,
    and much easier to deal with when maintenance is required.

    http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/sceusa/CASE_FRONT_wires.jpg

    What you'd notice, if that was the case, is that the "RESET" and
    "POWER" switch connectors, are the same shape, and are 1x2 connectors.
    Both the RESET and POWER switches are "momentary contact" type.

    And that means, you can unplug the "POWER" one, unplug the "RESET" one,
    and push the "RESET" one into place, where the "POWER" one used to be.
    Then, when using the front panel controls on the computer, the tiny
    RESET button performs the power on/off function. You can forget about
    the reset function, as it is optional for the moment. That's the
    quickest way to get the computer running again, if the POWER
    button itself is busted.

    As the other respondent "rb" says, a momentary contact switch type
    is what you want. The fun part, is getting it connected (if you want
    to replace the button itself).

    *******

    On things like pre-built computers, instead of individual wire
    pairs, you may notice a "monolithic block", like a 2x4 or a 2x5
    or the like, which slides as one unit, onto the motherboard
    PANEL connector. That's a little less convenient to deal with.
    They do them that way, to speed up the manual assembly procedure
    when constructing the computer at the factory.

    To change the wiring in the polyester black shell, you can
    lift a tab on the side of the block, to release the pin and
    allow it to slide out. This only works, if the polyester shell
    uses tabs of that type. In this case, you'd move the RESET pair
    of wires, into the position the POWER pair used to take. Total
    of four tab manipulations, two to release the POWER wires,
    two to release the RESET wires, and then push the RESET wires
    into the POWER holes. Front panel switches are not polarized,
    so on a wire pair, it doesn't matter which lead goes in which
    hole of the pair. (LEDs on that connector, *are* polarized, and
    you have to be more careful if rewiring LED indicators in the
    block.)

    http://www.frontx.com/head_con.html

    The "lifting of tabs" thing is only required, if the PANEL wiring
    assembly is one monolithic block and the wire pairs are
    not separable. If your computer actually has individual 1x2
    connectors, the switching of the wiring will go much faster.

    *******

    You can find sellers on Ebay (likely in China), who will sell
    a wire assembly and switch, ready to use.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-Case-Fro...396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6a4d2b34

    That would work, if you had the individual wire pairs kind of
    computer, as you could then install a new switch, and plug the
    1x2 connector onto the appropriate pair of pins on the PANEL
    header.

    Radioshack isn't likely to carry an exact assembly like that,
    but a local computer store may have them. I have several
    computer recyclers in town, and that would be another place
    to look for a reasonably priced solution. You could even bring
    in the switch in your current case, for a visual match of
    dimensions (better chance it will fit).

    I leave the buttons hanging down from my current case. They're
    not in the holes in the front panel. That makes it easier for me
    to remove the front panel to replace optical drives and the like.
    My LEDs are actually mounted in the metal frame of the computer,
    so when the panel comes off, there are only "light pipes" in the
    plastic, to couple the light from the LED, into the front panel
    indicators. That way, my panel has no wires at all on it any more.
    But I do have an unsightly power and reset switch, hanging down
    from the sides of the computer :) For that quality, ghetto look :)

    It could be, that by easing the switch out of the panel,
    and leaving it hanging down, the switch won't bind and will
    work smoother. You never know...

    Paul
     
    Paul, Dec 8, 2011
    #1
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  2. Paul

    philo Guest

    On 12/08/2011 05:36 PM, Paul wrote:
    > Rboats wrote:
    >> How to remove on/off button and troubleshoot or replace. Currently it
    >> sticks when pushed in, it would sometimes pop back to regular "on"
    >> postion and power up and process..now it will power up but won't
    >> processs, sometimes get the error screen that that starts the countdown
    >> to start in normal mode but after countdown to zero..nothing happens,,
    >> I'm not a comp wiz but a all around DIY'er with everything else so now
    >> it's computer time. Just don't want to destroy any components while
    >> trouble shooting. Think I just need to replace On/OFF button. Any help
    >> greatly appreciated. Thanks,Randy

    >
    > The front panel of your computer, will have four or five twisted pair
    > wire things, coming from the panel to the motherboard "PANEL" header.
    >
    > On my computer, the wiring looks like this. Separate wire pairs,
    > and much easier to deal with when maintenance is required.
    >
    > http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/sceusa/CASE_FRONT_wires.jpg
    >
    > What you'd notice, if that was the case, is that the "RESET" and
    > "POWER" switch connectors, are the same shape, and are 1x2 connectors.
    > Both the RESET and POWER switches are "momentary contact" type.
    >
    > And that means, you can unplug the "POWER" one, unplug the "RESET" one,
    > and push the "RESET" one into place, where the "POWER" one used to be.
    > Then, when using the front panel controls on the computer, the tiny
    > RESET button performs the power on/off function. You can forget about
    > the reset function, as it is optional for the moment. That's the
    > quickest way to get the computer running again, if the POWER
    > button itself is busted.
    >
    > As the other respondent "rb" says, a momentary contact switch type
    > is what you want. The fun part, is getting it connected (if you want
    > to replace the button itself).
    >
    > *******
    >
    > On things like pre-built computers, instead of individual wire
    > pairs, you may notice a "monolithic block", like a 2x4 or a 2x5
    > or the like, which slides as one unit, onto the motherboard
    > PANEL connector. That's a little less convenient to deal with.
    > They do them that way, to speed up the manual assembly procedure
    > when constructing the computer at the factory.
    >
    > To change the wiring in the polyester black shell, you can
    > lift a tab on the side of the block, to release the pin and
    > allow it to slide out. This only works, if the polyester shell
    > uses tabs of that type. In this case, you'd move the RESET pair
    > of wires, into the position the POWER pair used to take. Total
    > of four tab manipulations, two to release the POWER wires,
    > two to release the RESET wires, and then push the RESET wires
    > into the POWER holes. Front panel switches are not polarized,
    > so on a wire pair, it doesn't matter which lead goes in which
    > hole of the pair. (LEDs on that connector, *are* polarized, and
    > you have to be more careful if rewiring LED indicators in the
    > block.)
    >
    > http://www.frontx.com/head_con.html
    >
    > The "lifting of tabs" thing is only required, if the PANEL wiring
    > assembly is one monolithic block and the wire pairs are
    > not separable. If your computer actually has individual 1x2
    > connectors, the switching of the wiring will go much faster.
    >
    > *******
    >
    > You can find sellers on Ebay (likely in China), who will sell
    > a wire assembly and switch, ready to use.
    >
    > http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-Case-Fro...396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6a4d2b34
    >
    >
    > That would work, if you had the individual wire pairs kind of
    > computer, as you could then install a new switch, and plug the
    > 1x2 connector onto the appropriate pair of pins on the PANEL
    > header.
    >
    > Radioshack isn't likely to carry an exact assembly like that,
    > but a local computer store may have them. I have several
    > computer recyclers in town, and that would be another place
    > to look for a reasonably priced solution. You could even bring
    > in the switch in your current case, for a visual match of
    > dimensions (better chance it will fit).
    >
    > I leave the buttons hanging down from my current case. They're
    > not in the holes in the front panel. That makes it easier for me
    > to remove the front panel to replace optical drives and the like.
    > My LEDs are actually mounted in the metal frame of the computer,
    > so when the panel comes off, there are only "light pipes" in the
    > plastic, to couple the light from the LED, into the front panel
    > indicators. That way, my panel has no wires at all on it any more.
    > But I do have an unsightly power and reset switch, hanging down
    > from the sides of the computer :) For that quality, ghetto look :)
    >
    > It could be, that by easing the switch out of the panel,
    > and leaving it hanging down, the switch won't bind and will
    > work smoother. You never know...
    >
    > Paul



    Good answer

    the reset button is not a good idea anyway

    if the machine is having problems,
    if the power button is depressed the system should go into a safe shut
    down...

    and if it's totally locked up
    just killing the ac should do the trick
     
    philo, Dec 9, 2011
    #2
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