Q: What is the highest DPI possible in a scanner?

C

Clinton M James

Hey Folks,

I was wondering if somebody could fill me in on the scanner with the highest
DPI available. I have seen many references to 4800, but not over that.

I want to scan some film negatives in and want the best resolution possible.
I have used 800 ASA and even 1000 ASA film in the past and I know these are
equivalent to much more than 10MP in a digital camera.

And I am almost lead to believe 4800 DPI is just over 5MP.

Therefore, if i am going to buy a scanner, I want the best because I don't
wish to stuff aorund buying a better one years later and then re-scanning my
memories again and again.

I basically want to scan them as best I can possibly. I will not even be
saving them in jpeg because I know jpeg is lossy for quality of image.

Help is appreciated.

Regards,
Clint
 
W

Wayne Fulton

I want to scan some film negatives in and want the best resolution possible.
I have used 800 ASA and even 1000 ASA film in the past and I know these are
equivalent to much more than 10MP in a digital camera.

And I am almost lead to believe 4800 DPI is just over 5MP.


That could have different meanings, but assuming 35 mm film at roughly
1.4x0.92 inches, then 4800 dpi gives 6720x4416 pixels, which is about 30
megapixels (6720x4416 = 29.68 million).

So that was not what was meant. Possibly what you meant is that 4800 dpi
flatbed scanners dont deliver the same results as real film scanners, and that
is true at these numbers. You will get all the pixels, but less actual
detail resolved in the image.

Minolta makes a 5400 dpi 35 mm film scanner. Especially at these high
resolutions, the best results will always be with slow fine-grain film,
instead of ASA 1000, overwhelmingly so.

want the best resolution possible

You didnt specify your goal, but often this is said without understanding what
resolution is. Scanning resolution is used for enlargement. It is an image
size. If you want the maximum image size for unusual purposes, then the
statement is appropriate. The maximum resolution will give you the ability
to print very large prints, much larger than 8x10 inches. If you are only
printing say 8x10 inches at 300 dpi, then all you can use is about 2400x3000
pixels (7 megapixels) and 2700 dpi can do that (from 35 mm film).

There is also the issue that higher resolution minimizes grain aliasing, but
in general, more resolution creates more pixels, which can print a larger
print, but having more than you can use wont help printing this 8x10 inches at
300 dpi case.
 
K

Kennedy McEwen

Clinton M James said:
Hey Folks,

I was wondering if somebody could fill me in on the scanner with the highest
DPI available. I have seen many references to 4800, but not over that.
Current top of the resolution stakes in consumer scanners is the Minolta
5400SE, just recently revamped, at 5400ppi (Pixels Per Inch). The new
version of this scanner has only recently been released and very view
reviews are available, however it is known to use a different light
source from the original and have cut back on some of features, so many
consider the original a better buy if you can get it.

There is a very low cost film scanner available from Plustek that claims
7200ppi. You might, as I did, consider that at well below $200 this
would probably have a poor performance and fail to deliver thie claimed
resolution. Well, I can't say either way, but I have not seen a single
complaint from a single user on this forum - which is very surprising!
Even the best scanners get complaints and queries posted here from
people who don't think they work as well as they should. So either the
Plustek is not selling at all, is only being bought by people with low
expectations or it is actually delivering exactly what it says on the
box and all their customers are happy bunnies. ;-) You'll have to make
your own mind up, but for almost a quarter of the price of more widely
respected products, you might consider it worth a gamble - especially if
you continue to believe that resolution is your goal.
I want to scan some film negatives in and want the best resolution possible.

Scanning negatives requires a lot more than spatial resolution (ppi).
Negatives, in particular, place great demands on scanner accuracy -
particularly signal to noise ratio. This is because negatives compress
the contrast of the image as it is recorded, so when you come to scan
the negative and produce the final image, you have to stretch the
contrast of the film image back to recover the original scene contrast.
There are lots of other processes that go on at the same time, including
removal of the orange mask, and usually this is handled automagically in
the scanner driver for you, to a greater or lesser degree of
acceptability. Neverthless, all of this processing increases the
visibility of scanner limitations and defects much more than slides,
which record the image as a reasonable representation of the original
scene and thus require little manipulation.

So, for your requirements, resolution may not be the dominant parameter
that you initially considered it to be - signal to noise ratio and
channel uniformity are just as, if not more, important.
I have used 800 ASA and even 1000 ASA film in the past and I know these are
equivalent to much more than 10MP in a digital camera.

Know, suspect or have been told that?
I doubt that many 800ASA or 1000ASA 35mm results come close to those of
a professional 10Mpix DSLR - even if they are scanned at 5400ppi!

One of the reasons for this is that the pixel count in the image is not
a particularly good metric for performance - George Orwell didn't design
digital imaging systems so "all pixels are NOT equal" - and resolution
is not the only relevant performance metric. ;-)

For example, a 10Mp dSLR will have a frame size of around 2600x3900
pixels compared to a 4000ppi scan from 35mm film with 3800x5700 pixels
and you might think that this would give the better image. However the
dSLR will have a luminance MTF around Nyquist of about 60%, depending on
the lens used, whilst the film itself will only be around 25-30% MTF at
this same resolution. MTF is just a technical measure of how the medium
reproduces the contrast presented to it at any particular spatial
frequency - a similar concept to the frequency response of your audio
system. Then their is the issue of noise. The noise density on the
dSLR has a flat response throughout its spatial frequency range, while
on film it increases dramatically due to film grain - and this is more
significant with fast films of 800 and 1000ASA than it is with 50-100ASA
film. The noise determines how well that reproduced contrast can be
distinguished from mush. Then you have an extra set of optics in the
film process, further impacting the MTF. In short, the dSLR just has
'better' pixels. So a comparison such as 10Mpix from a dSLR with 22Mpix
or more from a scan of 35mm film can be very misleading indeed, even
though the pixels in the scan are tricolor, as opposed to Bayer matrix
monocolor pixels in the dSLR. In almost all comparisons of this type,
the dSLR will win hands down - there are exceptions, but not from 800
and 1000ASA film stock.
And I am almost lead to believe 4800 DPI is just over 5MP.
That seems to contradict your comparisons with 35mm film and 10Mpix
cameras. In fact, a 4800ppi scanner will produce full 35mm frame scans
with approximately 30Mpix, but since all pixels are not equal it is just
a salesman's urination contest.
Therefore, if i am going to buy a scanner, I want the best because I don't
wish to stuff aorund buying a better one years later and then re-scanning my
memories again and again.
The scanners you might want to consider are the Minolta mentioned above,
at 5400ppi with 16bits per channel, the Nikon V (LS-50), at 4000ppi with
14bits per channel, or the Nikon 5000 (LS-5000), at 4000ppi with 16-bits
per channel. Any of these scanners has more than enough performance to
get everything from 800 and 1000 ASA films and they will get almost
everything from much slower film too.

The Nikon's have some advantages over alternatives because of the light
source that they use - each colour is captured on the same CCD line with
the image being illuminated in sequence by three coloured LEDs. This
gives exceptional colour purity and separation. Other scanners use
tricolour CCDs with white illumination, where each colour of the image
is captured with a different CCD line under a different colour filter.
The filters are less than perfect, bleeding into each other, requiring
some matrix manipulation to separate out, thus reducing the signal to
noise ratio. Of course the filters built into the film emulsion exhibit
the same type of spectral impurities, but at least the Nikon approach
doesn't make it any worse.

So, if you get nothing else from this message, there is a lot more to
getting good scan from film than resolution.
I basically want to scan them as best I can possibly. I will not even be
saving them in jpeg because I know jpeg is lossy for quality of image.
Good intentions but, considering that jpegs compress so well with
perfectly acceptable performance at high resolution, you might consider
saving a jpeg of the final edit alongside the original in loss-less
tiff.

The loss in performance on a scanned jpeg is a lot less than some of the
major issues that you have ignored in your quest for the best. ;-)
 
D

Don

I have used 800 ASA and even 1000 ASA film in the past and I know these are
equivalent to much more than 10MP in a digital camera.

Another thing - assuming these films will then be subsequently scanned
- is that these scans will be 2nd generation i.e., a (scanner) picture
of a (film) picture.

That's why (on balance, all things considered...) digital cameras with
lower resolution tend to outperform scanners with higher resolution,
because a digital camera shot is 1st generation.

In particular, this applies to absence of film grain and better
dynamic range e.g. (as Kennedy explained) negatives are compressed on
film and then expanded during scanning. All that additional massaging
of image data doesn't do it much good when compared to a "direct"
digicam shot.

As he also outlined, although sufficient resolution is a must, there
are many other very important parameters when making a purchasing
decision, specifically the scanner's light source i.e., LEDs don't
deteriorate with time as conventional light sources do!

Don.
 
C

Christoph Breitkopf

Clinton M James said:
I was wondering if somebody could fill me in on the scanner with the highest
DPI available. I have seen many references to 4800, but not over that.

IIRC some drum scanners do up to 20000dpi.
For less money you can still get 12000dpi:
http://www.icg.ltd.uk/products/icg-380-drum-scanner.htm

I think you are really asking for consumer scanners, though,
and as already mentioned by other posters, the Minolta
currently has highest resolution.

(The 7200dpi Plustec has at best about half the nominal resolution -
if you happen to read german, here's a test:
http://www.filmscanner.info/PlustekOpticFilm7200.html)

Regards,
Chris
 
B

Bart van der Wolf

SNIP
(The 7200dpi Plustec has at best about half the nominal
resolution - if you happen to read german, here's a test:
http://www.filmscanner.info/PlustekOpticFilm7200.html)

It says, amongst others:
During the analysis of the USAF 1951 scans I couldn't believe my eyes.
One could barely make out element 5.6., where honesty forces to say
that the black bars were not clearly visible against the background,
like they were visible with element 5.5. Element 5.6 almost equals a
resolution of 2900 ppi; which is not even 50% of the claimed
resolution.

IMHO part of that conclusion may be due to the testing method used,
although they did repeat the scan several times, and they also used
another target, with the same results. Plustek is claiming optical
resolution which it apparently is not, it is interpolated.

Bart
 
W

Wilfred

Bart said:
IMHO part of that conclusion may be due to the testing method used,
although they did repeat the scan several times, and they also used
another target, with the same results. Plustek is claiming optical
resolution which it apparently is not, it is interpolated.

.... or based on flatbed-like technology, so that the individual sensor
elements pick up each other's signals.
 
M

Mike Fox

You didnt specify your goal, but often this is said without understanding what
resolution is. Scanning resolution is used for enlargement. It is an image
size. If you want the maximum image size for unusual purposes, then the
statement is appropriate. The maximum resolution will give you the ability
to print very large prints, much larger than 8x10 inches. If you are only
printing say 8x10 inches at 300 dpi, then all you can use is about 2400x3000
pixels (7 megapixels) and 2700 dpi can do that (from 35 mm film).

There is also the issue that higher resolution minimizes grain aliasing, but
in general, more resolution creates more pixels, which can print a larger
print, but having more than you can use wont help printing this 8x10 inches at
300 dpi case.

Wayne

I understand what you point is and certainly agree you. However, I
think that Clint was aiming more at the question: What ppi should we
scan a slide at to get all the information (poor word) contained in
the grain structure of the slide film. I'm interested in that answer
too.

Mike
 
W

Wayne Fulton

I understand what you point is and certainly agree you. However, I
think that Clint was aiming more at the question: What ppi should we
scan a slide at to get all the information (poor word) contained in
the grain structure of the slide film. I'm interested in that answer
too.

I'm sorry Mike, I dont know any answer to that. a It will of course depend on
your film. The 800ASA or 1000ASA mentioned before isnt the way to try. Seems
better to use slow fine grain film and a sturdy tripod.
 
M

Mike Fox

I'm soley interested in 35 mm Kodachrome slide film positives. Do you
know where I could find the information?
 
R

rafe bustin

I'm soley interested in 35 mm Kodachrome slide film positives. Do you
know where I could find the information?


http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF7.html
http://www.users.uswest.net/~rnclark/scandetail.htm
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jmdavis/


My estimate?

4000 dpi = 95% of max possible detail
5000 dpi = 97% of max possible detail

Round numbers, of course, but the point is,
it's not a linear function at all.

And if we're talking "equivalents" to
the newest and best digital SLRs, the
numbers change again. The Canon 1Ds
Mk II (16 megapixels, full-frame) walks
all over scanned 35 mm and is more
properly compared to scanned MF film.
(And that was already true for its
immediate predecessor.)

It's my prediction that in another few
years the only people scanning film
will be archivists.

But I am seriously seeking a decent
scanner for my LF film.


rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/
 
D

Don

I understand what you point is and certainly agree you. However, I
think that Clint was aiming more at the question: What ppi should we
scan a slide at to get all the information (poor word) contained in
the grain structure of the slide film. I'm interested in that answer
too.

Anyone who cares for quality asks this question when they first get
into scanning, including your's truly about 2-3 years ago.

I even went into a related question: What is the "resolution" of a
human eye? (Not only color bit depth but the actual resolution, i.e.
how many cones, how many rods, etc.)

Unfortunately - and contrary to expectation - the answer to all these
questions is not that simple because of all the pitfalls along the
road.

Conventional wisdom says that you need at least twice the resolution
of the smallest possible particle you wish to "resolve". In case of
film, that "atomic" item is grain. And that's where the fun starts...

Unlike pixels which are all the same "size" grain varies in size. Not
only is grain a function of film speed, but even within the same speed
ranking, simply due to analog nature of grain you'll get grain of
different sizes. So, that means, if you use the conventional formula
and focus on resolution to resolve the "target" grain of the film's
speed, what about all the smaller particles? Yes, they will cause
aliasing...

Now that's bad enough, but it gets even worse. Grain is not two
dimensional like our obedient pixels. Film emulsion has thickness i.e.
it's three dimensional! So, enter the so-called "grain clouds"...

But wait, there's more... ;o) Just when you thought you got it all
figured out, and settled on a decent resolution (say, 4000) people
started noticing these extremely well defined (sharp) black specks all
over the place. Huh? Meet "pepper spots"!

Apparently, during film development, small bubbles erm... "develop"
which our beloved scanners register as these tiny black spots. Some of
the current film has actually been designed to avoid this and I read
recommendations for one make or the other.

So, basically, the deeper you dig the messier it gets...

The rough guesstimates I got is that to resolve everything you need
about ~10,000 resolution - but due to all of the above, don't be
surprised if someone jumps in to dispute it...

As to how many "bio-pixels" (as I called them) the eye has, the answer
I got is: "The maximum angular resolution of the eye is usually quoted
at about one arc-minute; from a distance of 25 cm this translates to
about 75 µm.". Erm... Yes... Right... ;o)

Don.
 
D

Don

And if we're talking "equivalents" to
the newest and best digital SLRs, the
numbers change again. The Canon 1Ds
Mk II (16 megapixels, full-frame) walks
all over scanned 35 mm and is more
properly compared to scanned MF film.
(And that was already true for its
immediate predecessor.)

One thing to keep in mind is that such "equivalent" comparisons (as
you correctly put it in quotes) is somewhat misleading. A digicam
takes a first generation picture, while scanned film image is second
generation i.e. a "picture of a picture".

Therefore, a digicam sporting the same resolution as a scanner will
capture considerably more information from the real world than the
scanner's "impression of a film's impression" of the real world.

Don.
 
W

Wayne Fulton

I'm soley interested in 35 mm Kodachrome slide film positives. Do you
know where I could find the information?


The practical answer is that todays better film scanners are pretty good,
and these scanners should be all you need. The practical way to approach it
is to instead define your need, and then try to meet that need.

The theoretical answer is indeed complex, and is generally academic for most
practical purposes of image size. For what Kodak says about the Kodachrome
specifications, see
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e55/e55.jhtml?id
=0.1.18.14.9.22.7.14.14.3&lc=en

(at Image Structure - Modulation Transfer Curve)

For what they mean by this, see
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/students/handbook/sensitometric5.jhtml?id=0
..1.4.9.6&lc=en

And there is much other on the web about modulation transfer curves.

The limit will not be be a clear answer, because the extreme of measurable
spatial frequency has near zero contrast, unusable past some earlier point.
There wont be agreement on that point.
 
M

Mike Fox

To summerize your comments, it's extremely complicated, and 4000 ppi
starts causing it's own problems.

A number of recommendations cite the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000. On
eBay, they appear to go for about $1000 and the bulk slide feeder for
$400. Unfortunately, that's beyond my acceptance level for something
I'll use once to scan 8000 slides and never use again. I wonder how
much I could recoup by selling it after I'm finished?

I read a review of the Coolscan and am bothered by that too. The
reviewer indicated that he liked it a lot (digital ICE), but that
there was a lot of hand processing with photo-editing software to get
acceptable images for file. I was hoping to load 40 slides and walk
away for however much time it took--come back and load another
40--etc. Is there a scanner on the market that handles automated
processing better?

Thanks for interest in giving a lengthy comment.

Mike
 
R

rafeb

Mike said:
To summerize your comments, it's extremely complicated, and 4000 ppi
starts causing it's own problems.

A number of recommendations cite the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000. On
eBay, they appear to go for about $1000 and the bulk slide feeder for
$400. Unfortunately, that's beyond my acceptance level for something
I'll use once to scan 8000 slides and never use again. I wonder how
much I could recoup by selling it after I'm finished?


So you were hoping to get your slides
scanned with professional quality at
$0.175 apiece? Helllooooooo.


rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com
 
P

Philip Homburg

So you were hoping to get your slides
scanned with professional quality at
$0.175 apiece? Helllooooooo.

The money part should work out okay (I assume that an LS-5000 doesn't have
any problems with 8000 scans). Assuming there is enough demand for scanners,
he should get at least half of what he paid.

The professional quality part is tricky. If the slides are all properly
exposed (and you don't want to get the most out of the scans by using the
analog gain) you probably want to store the scans as 16/ch tiffs. And
with 8000 slides that adds up to 24/25.4*36/25.4*4000*4000*2*3*8000= 1 TByte.
 
M

Mike Fox

$1400 is still $1400 no matter what the unit cost, and they'll never
get done if I have to pay even 50¢ a piece to do them commercially
and they cost a lot more than that here.

Since you're piping in, do you know the qualitative difference between
the Coolscan 5000 LS-5000 and the Coolscan 5000 ED? I assume the LS
is an older model. On eBay, there's about $300 difference between
what they're going for.

Mike
 
R

rafeb

Mike said:
$1400 is still $1400 no matter what the unit cost, and they'll never
get done if I have to pay even 50¢ a piece to do them commercially
and they cost a lot more than that here.

Right. That was my point. It looks to me
like your expectations (for cost/slide)
are not reasonable, especially when you
clearly expect quality work.

Quality scans take time, at least when I do them.

Since you're piping in, do you know the qualitative difference between
the Coolscan 5000 LS-5000 and the Coolscan 5000 ED? I assume the LS
is an older model. On eBay, there's about $300 difference between
what they're going for.


No, I always assumed these were different names
for the same machine. I have no personal experience
with the LS-5000 or 5000 ED. I am a happy user of
an LS-8000, and have been for ~4 years.


rafe b.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com
 

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