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Re: Antec Neo or Truepower ?
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Re: Antec Neo or Truepower ?
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Re: Antec Neo or Truepower ? |
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#1 |
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On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 23:04:43 -0400, "Skeleton Man"
<invalid@guestwho.com> wrote: >Hi all, > >Which is better, a 650 Antec Neo or a 650W Antec Truepower trio ? I'm >looking to replace my generic PSU with a real one at a reasonable price. > >Is an Antec Neo Power 650 Blue for $140 a good deal ? I suppose the Canadian to US exchange rate is pretty close right now so it's $140 either way but I don't know the going rates of parts in Canada, yet $140 seems like overkill for the system described below. > >Ideally I'd like to spend no more than $150 before shipping.. any other >suggestions on power supply ? I'm basically looking for the best 650W I can >buy (or as near to it as possible). 650 looks to be the sweetspot - enough >power for what I need but not off the wall in price. None of the above? Your system isn't anywhere close to needing a 650W PSU. How about a reasonable quality 500W for $72 delivered? http://www.ca.buy.com/prod/Antec_Ea.../203477216.html I don't know about it's noise level, but the general idea should be that you can about cut the price in half getting something that still has more power than your system needs going with a name brand 450-550W unit, maybe even cheaper if Canada has some of the rebate deals that the US has. Maybe at Tiger Direct? > >I'd like to kill two birds with one stone too - I have a hard limit of $200 >and I'd like to get a decent PSU and a nice CPU cooler. I'm looking for low >noise and more cooling power over flashy leds.. (I'd actually prefer not to >have leds on the cooler). Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro. You don't need anything more unless going for an extreme overclock (can handle your CPU at stock speed with plenty of margin) and be reasonably quiet doing so. I don't know where the best place is to buy one in Canada but often it's about $20 USD plus S/H. > >I bought an Asus silent square, but it's not the pro version and won't fit >AM2 mountings. I found a 939 to AM2 mounting adapter but it's not worth $15 >+ another $15 shipping (I should add this adapter is merely two strips of >metal with holes and spacers - worth about $5 and iit would fit into a $2 >envelope). > >My setup: >--------------------------------------------------------------- >M/B: MSI K9N4SLI >CPU: Athlon 64 X2 5200+ (2600Mhz, 13 x 200, stock values) >RAM: 2x 512MB Kingston HyperX DDR2 800Mhz >Gfx: PCI-E RADEON X1600 >HDD1: Western Digital WD800JB PATA 7200RPM >HDD2: Western Digital WD2000JB PATA 7200RPM >DVD: Sony/Optiarc AD5170A DVDRW > >RAM and CPU are running at stock speed/voltage. >-------------------------------------------------------------- Frankly the best upgrade you could make with the rest of the money you'd save getting above suggested parts is to add a pair of 1GB memory modules. Next decide if you need the full 3GB at slower timings or 2GB at faster if doing something where memory bandwidth matters more than memory amount (but IMO, usually the larger amount of memory is worth the slight penalty, if any, when running 4 modules). Of course I'm assuming the board has 4 slots, if not then the answer is simple, to only use 2 x 1GB modules -OR- 2 x 2GB modules if it supports that. Beyond that, $200 is a lot to invest in an aging system but we don't know what your primary needs are. |
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#2 |
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>I suppose the Canadian to US exchange rate is pretty close
>right now so it's $140 either way but I don't know the going >rates of parts in Canada, yet $140 seems like overkill for >the system described below. Yes it's overkill for the system I am powering, but is it off the mark for that particular PSU ? >None of the above? Your system isn't anywhere close to >needing a 650W PSU. How about a reasonable quality 500W for >$72 delivered? That looks like an excellent deal, but I'm also looking to future compatibility. What happens if I throw in 3 or 4 WD Raptors for example ? (or even two) Also if I upgrade later on to a quad core system is 500W going to cut it ? (kinda hoping to keep the PSU beyond my next upgrade in a year or so) >I don't know about it's noise level, but the general idea >should be that you can about cut the price in half getting >something that still has more power than your system needs >going with a name brand 450-550W unit, maybe even cheaper if >Canada has some of the rebate deals that the US has. Maybe >at Tiger Direct? Noise is another factor in both PSU and CPU cooler, as is heat.. the theory is if I run a larger PSU at 2/3 capacity it will produce a lot less heat and noise than a smaller PSU at 3/4 capacity. >Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro. You don't need anything more >unless going for an extreme overclock (can handle your CPU >at stock speed with plenty of margin) and be reasonably >quiet doing so. I don't know where the best place is to buy >one in Canada but often it's about $20 USD plus S/H. The quieter the better.. the stock 80MM fan is running at >4300RPM most of the time, and that's with thermal control enabled (if I let it run full speed it's like 5500RPM and sounds like a Jet engine!) My PC runs 24/7 in the bedroom so I'd like to get it as quiet as possible.. Primary requirements are high res image editing (Photoshop) and VMWARE - they're the two most intensive things. Chris |
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#3 |
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Just noticed buy.com requires a CC. I was hoping for Paypal but no such
luck. Chris |
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#4 |
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On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 00:48:56 -0400, "Skeleton Man"
<invalid@guestwho.com> wrote: >>I suppose the Canadian to US exchange rate is pretty close >>right now so it's $140 either way but I don't know the going >>rates of parts in Canada, yet $140 seems like overkill for >>the system described below. > >Yes it's overkill for the system I am powering, but is it off the mark for >that particular PSU ? I don't know Canadian prices. One reference to US prices would be pricewatch, http://castle.pricewatch.com/s/sear...Supply+for+Case > >>None of the above? Your system isn't anywhere close to >>needing a 650W PSU. How about a reasonable quality 500W for >>$72 delivered? > >That looks like an excellent deal, but I'm also looking to future >compatibility. What happens if I throw in 3 or 4 WD Raptors for example ? >(or even two) Well... are you going to do that? Personally I'd prefer putting a bunch of drives in a gigabit linked fileserver, but yeah if you want to add 4 Raptors than a larger PSU seems more worthwhile. I think two would be ok but it's a grey area adding a little at a time, 1 vs 2 vs 3, etc. Without overclocking you really ought to have enough current to support 4 Raptors with a 500W, though if you were to switch to a higher powered video card and overclock, or switch to a quad core then you'll have to recalculate. >Also if I upgrade later on to a quad core system is 500W going to cut it ? >(kinda hoping to keep the PSU beyond my next upgrade in a year or so) If all you did was swap in a quad core phenom and add 2 Raptors I think the 500W would do the job. Anything more and it seems like 600W+ would give more margin, but ultimately if you start replacing a lot of stuff you'd then have enough leftover parts for another system, so it could still make sense to get the 500W for that purpose, switching to 650W when you really need to. > >>I don't know about it's noise level, but the general idea >>should be that you can about cut the price in half getting >>something that still has more power than your system needs >>going with a name brand 450-550W unit, maybe even cheaper if >>Canada has some of the rebate deals that the US has. Maybe >>at Tiger Direct? > >Noise is another factor in both PSU and CPU cooler, as is heat.. the theory >is if I run a larger PSU at 2/3 capacity it will produce a lot less heat and >noise than a smaller PSU at 3/4 capacity. That's not necessarily true, 2/3rds vs 3/4ths won't make much difference if they were otherwise equivalent 80-plus rated PSU. As for noise, 4 Raptors isn't exactly quiet either so you seem to have conflicting goals. However, you wouldn't be running the 500W at 3/4 capacity, that'd be 375W. As the system sits now you might be around 150-200W, add 4 HDD and you're up nearer 200-250W. With a more demanding processor let's say 40W more at load and still you're under 300W. A power hungry gaming video card would seem to be the final part to replace if you're getting up close, but as for noise since either wattage PSU will have close enough efficiency then either would create about the same noise if all else is equal, though actually it's often that higher wattage PSU have their fans set to spin faster because it'd have to in order to maintain acceptible cooling at full load. > >>Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro. You don't need anything more >>unless going for an extreme overclock (can handle your CPU >>at stock speed with plenty of margin) and be reasonably >>quiet doing so. I don't know where the best place is to buy >>one in Canada but often it's about $20 USD plus S/H. > >The quieter the better.. the stock 80MM fan is running at >4300RPM most of >the time, and that's with thermal control enabled (if I let it run full >speed it's like 5500RPM and sounds like a Jet engine!) My PC runs 24/7 in >the bedroom so I'd like to get it as quiet as possible.. That seems pretty high for having thermal control, is the case lacking good airflow or have you set the thermal control threshold awefully low? Regardless, back when I ran an o'c Athlon 64 @ 3GHz I used one of those and it stayed under 1300 RPM at full load, under 1000 RPM idling. I can only assume in Canada your average ambient temp will be as low or lower, I don't try to live in a refrigerator. > >Primary requirements are high res image editing (Photoshop) and VMWARE - >they're the two most intensive things. I'm not seeing where 4 Raptors play into this, but hey it's your toy. :-) You're going to be able to find deals in Canada better than those who don't live there, offhand I only know a handful of Canadian sellers like NICX, Tiger Direct, eCost... it'd take a while for me to remember any others. |
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#5 |
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On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 00:52:15 -0400, "Skeleton Man"
<invalid@guestwho.com> wrote: >Just noticed buy.com requires a CC. I was hoping for Paypal but no such >luck. > >Chris > They do take Google Checkout, at least in the US, so you might see what kind of payments Google Checkout accepts. |
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#6 |
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kony wrote:
> .... snip ... > > You're going to be able to find deals in Canada better than > those who don't live there, offhand I only know a handful of > Canadian sellers like NICX, Tiger Direct, eCost... it'd take > a while for me to remember any others. Are you implying that Tiger Direct has reformed its evil practices? -- [mail]: Chuck F (cbfalconer at maineline dot net) [page]: <http://cbfalconer.home.att.net> Try the download section. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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#7 |
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Skeleton Man wrote: > Just noticed buy.com requires a CC. I was hoping for Paypal but no such luck. With companies like Buy.com, you want to pay only with a credit card, because it's a lot easier to get your money back through the card dispute process (Fair Credit Billing Act) than through other means if the merchant goofs up, cheats, or goes bankrupt. One neat provision of credit card law is that it obligates the card issuer to act as your collection agent, and they have to honor your dispute unless they can prove that it's wrong, but few admit this. I'd avoid Antec TruePowers because they're made by Channel Well Technology, which uses junky Fuhjyyu capacitors that don't last very long. The good Antecs are by Seasonic, like the Trio, EarthWatts, and I think Quattro. |
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#8 |
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On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 15:44:28 -0500, CBFalconer
<cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote: >kony wrote: >> >... snip ... >> >> You're going to be able to find deals in Canada better than >> those who don't live there, offhand I only know a handful of >> Canadian sellers like NICX, Tiger Direct, eCost... it'd take >> a while for me to remember any others. > >Are you implying that Tiger Direct has reformed its evil practices? > No but in a pinch you use what's available. They do seem to have overhauled their rebate house and are more dependable than they used to be, but it's still never the place I'd look first, second or third for hardware. At least I haven't heard of any stunts like they used to pull, sneakily signing people up for long distance telephone plans. |
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#9 |
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"kony" wrote:
CBFalconer wrote: > >>Are you implying that Tiger Direct has reformed its evil practices? >> > > > No but in a pinch you use what's available. They do seem to > have overhauled their rebate house and are more dependable > than they used to be, but it's still never the place I'd > look first, second or third for hardware. At least I > haven't heard of any stunts like they used to pull, sneakily > signing people up for long distance telephone plans. Perhaps not, but they did burn me in a bait and switch on a mainboard last year. I was too busy at the time to deal with it, so after all was said and done I was out $20.00 for shipping both ways. They're still crooks. Jon |
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#10 |
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On Sat, 15 Mar 2008 01:44:29 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
<jonREMOVETHISdanniken@yahoo.com> wrote: >"kony" wrote: > CBFalconer wrote: >> >>>Are you implying that Tiger Direct has reformed its evil practices? >>> >> >> >> No but in a pinch you use what's available. They do seem to >> have overhauled their rebate house and are more dependable >> than they used to be, but it's still never the place I'd >> look first, second or third for hardware. At least I >> haven't heard of any stunts like they used to pull, sneakily >> signing people up for long distance telephone plans. > >Perhaps not, but they did burn me in a bait and switch on a mainboard last >year. I was too busy at the time to deal with it, so after all was said and >done I was out $20.00 for shipping both ways. They're still crooks. > >Jon > I'd send them two emails, wait a week or two for a satisfactory reply then contact the credit card company. No way I'd pay for shipping either way when they send the wrong part. If they were willing to have the shipper pick it up, the most I'd do would be to be there to confirm transfer of possession from me to the shipper. Hopefully you filed a report at resellerratings.com, a lot of people still go there to check on new companies or check back on some that were marginal. |
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