Gary,
I'm using the 4000 with Silverfast in RAW highbit mode.( based on the
RAW output for later Negafix workflow in Silverfast HDR). However, I'm
skipping the HDR completely. Instead I'm working on the RAWs directly
in Photoshop. This works extremely well with any negative. I'm using
Reala 100 for studio and portraits, Fuji 400 for the documentary and
800/1600 for pushdeveloping. The B&W stuff is everything from old
Neopan 400, TMZ 3200, T-max C41, 400 &100. The Nikons have always been
tough to do traditional BW work. The Polaroids have been very easy to
team with BW. But using the RAW (Negafix) output is much better with
Nikon. The bad experinces you do have with the Nikon 4000 and black
and white films will go away.
The RAW negafix output is not a pure RAW in the traditonal meaning.
But it uses some parts of the NikonScan driver to "prepaire" the basic
RAW (that you get from using positive mode) to be a better
startingpoint for the negafixworkflow in HDR. What you get from this
is a wonderful "RAW" output of a negative without any clipping of the
ends. ( It's like getting it all as with Vuescan compared to a normal
NikonScan ). Note that there is a big difference between Postive mode
RAW and Negafix RAW. You can use the positive mode too, but the colors
will be a lot easier to get into the ballpark with the negafix RAW
output. I know how to use Vuescan in and out since ages, but the
controlled workflow I get by using Silverfast this way beats it. You
do get it all into Photoshop and from that you just choose how to work
on it. The starting point is better than a Vuescan "autoprocessed" as
soon as you set the endpoints in R-G-B channels to clean up the mask.
Nothing has been done to the RAW before you're on it – except for the
slight "preparation". When Vuescan nails the colors, fine. When
Vuescan doesn't nail the colors, then you've got work to do within
that interface.
The "preparation" for the Negafix will be almost the same for each
RAW. The tool you use is Levels or Curves to get it into ballance –
but that's in Photoshop. It is a very very fast workflow. You don't
even have to crop in Silverfast or use ANY of the fantastic tools it
has. Load the neg, max rez, highbit. Preview and scan. You can do it
with hangover, no brain is needed for the scanning part. The exposure
of the scan is calculated from the allover frame. So, a cropping will
not change anything with exposure and that's why it can be left out at
scanningstage. The exposure reads the filmbase that shows up on the
side of the filmholder and calulates on that. No shadow
clipping......A crop will, of course, clip out a few MB from the
filesize, but that just matters if you scan directly to disk (which is
possible to do with Silverfast).
You should NOT adjust the Nikon "analog gain" to bump up all the three
componentchannels for "maximizing the dynamic range". No, the allover
ballance is much better when left on auto analog gain. You can use the
black and white or RGB. But I really doubt that you will gain anything
by using the RGB for BW. You'll have a very good "headroom" in both
ends to clip as much as you want by using Levels with the Video LUT
(alt+ dragging the sliders). Just INVERT in Photoshop first.
Then go into the separate comonentchannels for the endpointsettings.
When scanning colornegs with this flow the Bruce Fraser method with
Autocolor works wonderful. You know, stepping the values from zero
with the arrowkeys on the keyboard, using the snap midgrey in combo
with the colorpicker. This creates a controlled semiauto workflow that
really speed things up. The Autocolor with your own tweakings, is like
it was created for the negafix RAW ouputs.
See if the Silverfast Ai6 DEMO can create the negafix RAW highbit
outputs. The BW with nikon 4000 will not be a problem anylonger. But
the problem with blurred grain is still there <grin>.
nikita
ps. the "negafix system" itself isn't used in anyway – it's just the
preparation for it in the RAW that you will use. It makes the RAW
output a bit softer and not so "dense". The colors in colornegs will
be better ballanced regarding hue and saturation than using positive
RAW for the negs. Another good thing is that you get a RAW highbit to
archive. This Raw is much much easier to work directly with, than for
example the Vuescan RAW.
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