Thanks, Frank --
Yes, I do follow the VS recommended workflow, and I haven't yet taken
the step (or expense) to calibrate my monitor beyond Adobe Gamma. (I
do intend on getting the Wolf Faust target, though, so thanks for the
link.)
I recognize that there's a difference between the reflective photo
media and the transmissive screen image, but I think this is just part
of my larger educational need. What I am looking for in a tutorial is
to learn answers to "if skin tones are too orange, do this", "if the
greens are a little flat, do that". I'm still a novice at this kind
of thing, so I'm looking for help on how RGB channels combine to
produce the colors I see on my screen (and, hopefully, then relate
those to the reflected colors of my prints).
Interestingly, I changed my workflow yesterday and discovered some
settings that gave me colors closer to what I saw on my hardcopy
photos. I used VS to produce raw files and then used VS to scan from
the files; to correct the colors, I found that if I
(1) reduced the overall brightness
(2) checked "restore colors"
(3) boosted the brightness red to 1.25
(4) reduced the brightness blue to .8
(5) and left green unchanged
that I obtained scanned images that looked pretty darn close to the
original photos. Which really makes me question - with dismay - the
colors of all the negatives I've previously scanned. :-(
But it's a learning process. I find it interesting how my workflow
and approach changes/evolves as I plod through a 4" binder of
negatives. The scans I'm getting now are a huge improvement over
those from the start of my project.
Thanks again for your suggestions.
Bill
degrub <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message news:<hJ1Lc.1355$(E-Mail Removed)>...
> Have you attempted calibration of your monitor ? There are several free
> programs around , such as adobe gamma, that will let you get closer on
> what you see on screen. Or you can buy Photocal or equivalent and
> profile your monitor. The second thing to do is get an IT8 reflective
> target and use the profiling capabilities of Vuescan (you may have to
> upgrade) to help get the colors closer and more balanced. Wolf Faust
> sells very good quality for a reasonable price.
>
> http://www.targets.coloraid.de/
>
> Part of the difference you are seeing is the difference between
> reflective and transmissive media. Part is how your scanner is seeing
> the dyes on the film. Have you used Ed's advanced work flow to lock down
> the base color of your negatives ? Try looking at these websites for
> general scanning advice:
>
> www.scantips.com
>
> www.luminous-landscape.com
>
> www.computer-darkroom.com
>
> You can also look at a copy of Katrin Eismann's book " Photoshop
> Restoration and Retouching" for guidance.
>
> Frank
>
> Billman wrote:
> > Can anyone recommend some kind of tutorial on color correction of
> > scanned film negatives? I've been using Vuescan (8.0.8) to produce
> > Raw files from my Epson Perfection 2400 and using the following
> > workflow in Photoshop Elements 2.0:
> >
> > (1) Rotate (if needed) and invert
> > (2) auto color-correct (seems to be the same as doing each channel
> > individually)
> > (3) boost the saturation (the raw scan is too flat)
> > (4) slightly sharpen
> > (5) save a TIF and JPG.
> >
> > I think the resulting images look pretty good, but when I compare them
> > to the original hard print image I see the colors are way off. The
> > blue channel is too vivid, for example, and I can't quite get skin
> > tones correct. It also seems like the contrast of certain color
> > channels is compressed; the green leaves of plants, for example, are a
> > nice dark green in the photo but turn out much brighter in the
> > scanned. It's almost as if increasing the saturation is the wrong
> > thing to do overall, but I don't know how else to improve the
> > vividness of the "flat" scans.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance -- Bill
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