A lot of this is up to you. Basically, making judgment calls
of what is important to you, and what isn't. For example if
the OEM version doesn't come with cables, or a fan, and you
don't need them anyway, it really doesn't matter. Of course,
buy only "OEM" from vendors with a solid reputation to avoid
"switchies" and substitutions.

OEM usually don't have a manufacturer's warranty (though they
might have a vendor warranty).

OEM usually don't include "extras" and accessories like cables,
screws, brackets, etc.

OEM usually don't come with software.

OEM usually don't come with rebates (sometimes retail+rebate
is equal in price to OEM).

Again, it is really up to you to judge if these things are
important to you, or not.

polypheus wrote:
>
> If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
> dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
> perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
> advice?
>
> Thanks for any help!

"Walt" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> A lot of this is up to you. Basically, making judgment calls
> of what is important to you, and what isn't. For example if
> the OEM version doesn't come with cables, or a fan, and you
> don't need them anyway, it really doesn't matter. Of course,
> buy only "OEM" from vendors with a solid reputation to avoid
> "switchies" and substitutions.
>
> OEM usually don't have a manufacturer's warranty (though they
> might have a vendor warranty).
>
> OEM usually don't include "extras" and accessories like cables,
> screws, brackets, etc.
>
> OEM usually don't come with software.
>
> OEM usually don't come with rebates (sometimes retail+rebate
> is equal in price to OEM).
>
> Again, it is really up to you to judge if these things are
> important to you, or not.
>
> polypheus wrote:
> >
> > If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
> > dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
> > perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
> > advice?

Right. I once purchased an OEM mobo over the web. The seller called me to
make sure I understood that it wasn't guaranteed. He told me I would be
wise to pay the $10 testing fee otherwise I would have to pay a $15
restocking fee. I told him I understood that it has to work under UCC
implied waranties. The mobo I received did not work (surprise!). But I
didn't figure that out until the 5-day trial period had elapsed. Live,
learn and pick your vendors carefully.

"polypheus" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...

> For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
> versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?
>
> Motherboard
> Processor
> Memory
> Hard Drive
> Video Card
> DVD/CD Writer
> Windows OS
>
> If it's just packaging then I guess I will buy OEM to save a few
> dollars. But if I'm missing important parts and/or software, then
> perhaps it is better to buy retail version. Does anyone have any
> advice?

I wouldn't hesitate buying an OEM HD, unless the price difference isn't
enough to make up for the cables and other ancillaries packaged with a
retail drive, as the warranty should be the same. The same goes for the
video card, DVD, and memory if the warranties are the same.

The processor, however, will likely not have a HSF included, and unless
Intel has changed their policy the warranty will be 30 days for the OEM
product, three years for the retail. Go retail here, as there probably
won't be much difference in price anyway. As for the OS, you'll save going
OEM, but you'll get no support from M$ if you need it. Of course, M$
support is non-existent anyway, so no loss there. Use the newsgroups and
forums to troubleshoot the OS.

It depends on how risk adverse you are. I'd go retail on motherboards
and CPUs: a lot of the stuff you'll get as OEM are really system pulls
and have a short warranty. I've put known system pulls in relatives'
budget machines without incident, though the lack of warranty will be
a b**ch if they go bad. Also, retail mobos and CPUs include cables
and a heatsink, respectively, the price of which eliminates some of
the savings you get from buying OEM. OEM drives are fine, although
some are pulls or refurbs (especially CD-ROMs, which break easily and
are easily repaired). It's been my experience that such refurbs will
either be DOA or will last you forever.

In article <(E-Mail Removed)>,
swankypimp <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>It depends on how risk adverse you are. I'd go retail on motherboards
>and CPUs: a lot of the stuff you'll get as OEM are really system pulls
>and have a short warranty.

Do you have anything to back up this claim claim ? I don't think
consumer laws allow companies to sell pulls as new, and a reputable
dealer won't lie or mislead you about used goods.

See http://resellerratings.com/ before you buy from
a dealer you've never done business with.

EOM and retail disk drives frequently have different warranty periods
and proceedures for replacement.

I did see a "refurbished" sticker on an IBM disk drive, once. As it
happened it was one of the few PC disks I've seen fail.

I've put known system pulls in relatives'
>budget machines without incident, though the lack of warranty will be
>a b**ch if they go bad. Also, retail mobos and CPUs include cables
>and a heatsink, respectively, the price of which eliminates some of
>the savings you get from buying OEM. OEM drives are fine, although
>some are pulls or refurbs (especially CD-ROMs, which break easily and
>are easily repaired). It's been my experience that such refurbs will
>either be DOA or will last you forever.


--
Al Dykes
-----------
(E-Mail Removed)

"swankypimp" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> It depends on how risk adverse you are. I'd go retail on motherboards
> and CPUs: a lot of the stuff you'll get as OEM are really system pulls
> and have a short warranty. I've put known system pulls in relatives'
> budget machines without incident, though the lack of warranty will be
> a b**ch if they go bad. Also, retail mobos and CPUs include cables
> and a heatsink, respectively, the price of which eliminates some of
> the savings you get from buying OEM. OEM drives are fine, although
> some are pulls or refurbs (especially CD-ROMs, which break easily and
> are easily repaired). It's been my experience that such refurbs will
> either be DOA or will last you forever.

Mobo/CPU are about all i go retail on now... just cus the MOBO includes all
the cables that the oem drives will need... and the CPU has the heatsink/fan
and is in sealed container. I have to second with another poster that a
decent shop will NOT sell pulls/refurbs as OEM. And i know in the case of
Newegg OEM drives are BETTER protected in shipping than retail drives!!
Retail drives are usually encased in a fairly rigid container, allowing a
LOT of the shock of a fall to transfer to the drive... whereas Newegg wraps
the crap out of a drive with the ever famous bubblewrap.. course hard drives
are surprisingly G tolerant nowdays... but opticals arent!

On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 05:58:00 GMT, nooneimportant pondered exceedingly, then took
quill in hand and carefully composed...

| And i know in the case of Newegg OEM drives are BETTER protected in shipping
| than retail drives!! Retail drives are usually encased in a fairly rigid container, allowing
| a LOT of the shock of a fall to transfer to the drive... whereas Newegg wraps the crap
| out of a drive with the ever famous bubblewrap.. course hard drives are surprisingly
| G tolerant nowdays... but opticals arent!

It's almost worth buying OEM stuff from Newegg just to get to pop all that
bubblewrap! ;-)

Larc



§§§ - Please change planet to earth to reply by e-mail - §§§

Al Dykes wrote:
> In article <rETWb.17070$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> Matt <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>>polypheus wrote:
>>
>>>For the following computer components when is it better to buy retail
>>>versions and pay more rather than buy OEM versions?
>>
>>>Hard Drive
>>
>>
>>When you buy a retail-boxed WD drive, you know it has been well packaged
>>since it left the factory. A bulk-packaged drive can more easily be
>>damaged during shipping and handling by the retailer, since it is part
>>of the time handled without any packaging. The same may be true for
>>other components.
>>
>
>
> Disks are much more robust than people think. Picking a random disk
> model on the Western Digital web site, I find that a WD caviar can
> take 250G (non operating) and 65G when in operation.

> 250G is _a lot_ of shock. bubble wrap in a decent box will
> provide plenty of protection. Worry about shipping for big CRT
> monitors.

Then I guess the 4"x8"x10" plastic WD retail boxes are just for show?

Also when it is sealed in the retail box, you know it hasn't been tried
and rejected by a customer, which improves the odds that there is
nothing wrong with it.