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Attaching 80mm fan to original Athlon 2500 HSF

 
 
Wes Newell
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      8th Oct 2003
On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:35:48 -0400, Harry Muscle wrote:

> So does that mean I want to be able to see the die when applying Ceramique
> or do I a layer just thin enough to turn it all white?
>

About the thickness of a piece of paper is more than plenty, if that
helps.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.html
 
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WooduCoodu
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      9th Oct 2003
here's a better solution and it'll cost you about the same as a new fan.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduc...ion=35-150-010


 
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WooduCoodu
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      9th Oct 2003
here's a better solution and it'll cost you about the same as a new fan.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduc...ion=35-150-010



 
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Gary W. Swearingen
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      9th Oct 2003
"Wes Newell" <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:

> About the thickness of a piece of paper is more than plenty, if that
> helps.


Which reminds me of a method I thought of that I want to try next time:

Get a hard-plastic or metal straight edge and put some paper-thin tape
from one side to the other, over the edge. (Wrap it over the edge.)
Do it again with a gap between the two a bit bigger than the CPU.
Then use that to spread the goop onto the heat sink bottom.


I've also wondered if it would be a good idea to also spread the goop
on the CPU and then wipe as much off it as possible with a plain
straight edge -- just to make sure that all pits are filled. (I've
noticed when gluing things with the glue-one-side-only method and then
separating them, that there will sometimes be dry spots, but of course
those were courser surfaces.)

BTW:

T = Q * z / ( k * A ), where (example)
T = temperature drop across goop = 20 deg_C [See note 2]
Q = power flowing through goop = 60 watts [some go higher]
z = thickness of goop = 0.0001 m [See note 3]
A = area of goop = (0.010 m)^2 [barton ?]
k = Thermal Conductivity of goop = 3.0 W/(m*degC) [See note 1]

Note 1: IIRC, 3.0 is about as good as it gets. Good quality plain old
"white stuff" is about 0.4.

Note 2: This means that the chip is at least 20 deg_C hotter than
ambient with a perfect heat sink.

Note 3: 500 sheets of typical 20 lb paper is about 50mm thick so one
sheet is about 0.1 mm (about 0.004 inch).

So "more than plenty" is probably right. Use thin paper.
 
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Wes Newell
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      9th Oct 2003
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 07:48:16 +0000, Gary W. Swearingen wrote:

> "Wes Newell" <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:
>
>> About the thickness of a piece of paper is more than plenty, if that
>> helps.

>
> Which reminds me of a method I thought of that I want to try next time:
>
> Get a hard-plastic or metal straight edge and put some paper-thin tape
> from one side to the other, over the edge. (Wrap it over the edge.)
> Do it again with a gap between the two a bit bigger than the CPU.
> Then use that to spread the goop onto the heat sink bottom.
>
>
> I've also wondered if it would be a good idea to also spread the goop
> on the CPU and then wipe as much off it as possible with a plain
> straight edge -- just to make sure that all pits are filled. (I've
> noticed when gluing things with the glue-one-side-only method and then
> separating them, that there will sometimes be dry spots, but of course
> those were courser surfaces.)
>
> BTW:
>
> T = Q * z / ( k * A ), where (example)
> T = temperature drop across goop = 20 deg_C [See note 2]
> Q = power flowing through goop = 60 watts [some go higher]
> z = thickness of goop = 0.0001 m [See note 3]
> A = area of goop = (0.010 m)^2 [barton ?]
> k = Thermal Conductivity of goop = 3.0 W/(m*degC) [See note 1]
>
> Note 1: IIRC, 3.0 is about as good as it gets. Good quality plain old
> "white stuff" is about 0.4.
>
> Note 2: This means that the chip is at least 20 deg_C hotter than
> ambient with a perfect heat sink.
>
> Note 3: 500 sheets of typical 20 lb paper is about 50mm thick so one
> sheet is about 0.1 mm (about 0.004 inch).
>
> So "more than plenty" is probably right. Use thin paper.


And now how I really do it. I put a drop on the HS, rub it around with my
finger, then put a dab in the middle of the core and spread it around a
bit with my finger, then clean my finger and mount the cooler. Been
mounting them this way forever. If I remove the cooler for some reason, I
don't touch the core, just respread what's on the HS bottom back to the
core area, and add some if needed. Never a problem.:-)


--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.html
 
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Michael Brown
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      9th Oct 2003
"Wes Newell" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news(E-Mail Removed)...
> On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 07:48:16 +0000, Gary W. Swearingen wrote:
>
> > "Wes Newell" <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:
> >
> >> About the thickness of a piece of paper is more than plenty, if that
> >> helps.

> >
> > Which reminds me of a method I thought of that I want to try next time:
> >
> > Get a hard-plastic or metal straight edge and put some paper-thin tape
> > from one side to the other, over the edge. (Wrap it over the edge.)
> > Do it again with a gap between the two a bit bigger than the CPU.
> > Then use that to spread the goop onto the heat sink bottom.
> >
> >
> > I've also wondered if it would be a good idea to also spread the goop
> > on the CPU and then wipe as much off it as possible with a plain
> > straight edge -- just to make sure that all pits are filled. (I've
> > noticed when gluing things with the glue-one-side-only method and then
> > separating them, that there will sometimes be dry spots, but of course
> > those were courser surfaces.)
> >
> > BTW:
> >
> > T = Q * z / ( k * A ), where (example)
> > T = temperature drop across goop = 20 deg_C [See note 2]
> > Q = power flowing through goop = 60 watts [some go higher]
> > z = thickness of goop = 0.0001 m [See note 3]
> > A = area of goop = (0.010 m)^2 [barton ?]
> > k = Thermal Conductivity of goop = 3.0 W/(m*degC) [See note 1]
> >
> > Note 1: IIRC, 3.0 is about as good as it gets. Good quality plain old
> > "white stuff" is about 0.4.
> >
> > Note 2: This means that the chip is at least 20 deg_C hotter than
> > ambient with a perfect heat sink.
> >
> > Note 3: 500 sheets of typical 20 lb paper is about 50mm thick so one
> > sheet is about 0.1 mm (about 0.004 inch).
> >
> > So "more than plenty" is probably right. Use thin paper.

>
> And now how I really do it. I put a drop on the HS, rub it around with my
> finger, then put a dab in the middle of the core and spread it around a
> bit with my finger, then clean my finger and mount the cooler. Been
> mounting them this way forever. If I remove the cooler for some reason, I
> don't touch the core, just respread what's on the HS bottom back to the
> core area, and add some if needed. Never a problem.:-)


With your FINGER? Without wrapping it in glad wrap or anything? The AS
people would have a fit

Just redid my V7+ for fun (and cleaned out all the dust, thin fins seem to
collect it very quickly) and dropped K7burn temps from 78 to 63 celsius
(that's core, socket only seems to have dropped a couple of degrees to ~39
load). Not too bad, though I think it was mostly the dust causing problems.
I also applied more goop this time (as in just enough to not be able to read
the die writing, not just a ultra-thin layer with a razorblade as last
time), which may have something to do with it.

I also noticed when cleaning that somehow the markings on the die (AGOIA etc
etc) have been copied onto the heatsink. I've got no idea how, but it's very
clear and easy to read. The text on die does not seem to have faded or
anything either, so I've got no idea where it came from.

--
Michael Brown
www.emboss.co.nz : OOS/RSI software and more
Add michael@ to emboss.co.nz - My inbox is always open


 
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Mike Smith
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      13th Oct 2003
Harry Muscle wrote:
>
> So does that mean I want to be able to see the die when applying Ceramique
> or do I a layer just thin enough to turn it all white?


Well, that will depend on how flat the surfaces are. But this is what
you should do:

- spread thinly on *both* surfaces (die/heatplate and HSF).

- use a straightedge (razor blade, X-Acto knife) to gently scrape off
the excess from both surfaces.

- press surfaces together.

--
Mike Smith

 
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