I just finished removing the rust on the back plane of an old ATX case,
and would like to apply a layer of protective paint on it to prevent
future rusting!

Does the following work? Is it merely bluffing with nano-technology?

Surf City Garage 134 Nano Seal Protective Coat - 16 oz.
by Surf City Garage
Buy new: $25.19

http://www.amazon.com/Surf-City-Gara...7325137&sr=8-2

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Man-wai Chang to The Door (+MS=32B) wrote:
> I just finished removing the rust on the back plane of an old ATX case,
> and would like to apply a layer of protective paint on it to prevent
> future rusting!
>
> Does the following work? Is it merely bluffing with nano-technology?
>
> Surf City Garage 134 Nano Seal Protective Coat - 16 oz.
> by Surf City Garage
> Buy new: $25.19
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Surf-City-Gara...7325137&sr=8-2
>

Isn't that stuff just car wax ?

You can buy "rust paint", which can be applied over rust.
You remove any rust which is mechanically unstable, and
you don't have to remove so much rust, that the entire surface
is shiny. The rust paint is then applied over the surface.

If you purchase rust paint, make sure it is intended for
interior applications. The metal landing on my back steps,
is coated with an exterior rust paint, and it took a long
time until the smell was gone. Don't apply a product which
stinks, or is otherwise dangerous to use in an interior
application. If you have doubts about the safety of a
product, look up the MSDS.

(You can get MSDS information for a lot of products.
This is the MSDS for POR-15. )

http://www.actiocms.com/MsdsDisplayc...TOKEN=62733302

Rust can also be removed with phosphoric acid. I have a small
bottle of rust remover, which I experimented with on a
small piece of sheet metal. As soon as the rust remover was
rinsed away, a very fine coating of fresh rust immediately
appeared. You couldn't possibly apply a protective coating,
considering the speed with which new rust appeared.
As a result, if you were treating a piece of metal with a
compound like this, you'd want the work piece to be completely
rinsed and dry, before applying a rust paint on top of it.
Since rust paint is designed to be applied over rust, such
a fine coating of rust on the surface won't matter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phospho...d#Rust_removal

A regular paint may not apply well over rust, because the
paint film cannot properly form over the rust. Look for
a rust paint instead.

Paul

> Isn't that stuff just car wax ?

Thanks.

> If you purchase rust paint, make sure it is intended for
> interior applications. The metal landing on my back steps,
> is coated with an exterior rust paint, and it took a long
> time until the smell was gone. Don't apply a product which
> stinks, or is otherwise dangerous to use in an interior
> application. If you have doubts about the safety of a
> product, look up the MSDS.
>
> (You can get MSDS information for a lot of products.
> This is the MSDS for POR-15. )
>
> http://www.actiocms.com/MsdsDisplayc...TOKEN=62733302

Thanks again!

--
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On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 05:23:04 -0500, Paul rearranged some electrons to say:

> Man-wai Chang to The Door (+MS=32B) wrote:
>> I just finished removing the rust on the back plane of an old ATX case,
>> and would like to apply a layer of protective paint on it to prevent
>> future rusting!
>>
>> Does the following work? Is it merely bluffing with nano-technology?
>>
>> Surf City Garage 134 Nano Seal Protective Coat - 16 oz. by Surf City
>> Garage
>> Buy new: $25.19
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Surf-City-Gara...dp/B001Q7WZZE/
ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1257325137&sr=8-2
>>
>>
> Isn't that stuff just car wax ?
>
> You can buy "rust paint", which can be applied over rust. You remove any
> rust which is mechanically unstable, and you don't have to remove so
> much rust, that the entire surface is shiny. The rust paint is then
> applied over the surface.
>
> If you purchase rust paint, make sure it is intended for interior
> applications. The metal landing on my back steps, is coated with an
> exterior rust paint, and it took a long time until the smell was gone.
> Don't apply a product which stinks, or is otherwise dangerous to use in
> an interior application. If you have doubts about the safety of a
> product, look up the MSDS.
>
> (You can get MSDS information for a lot of products. This is the MSDS
> for POR-15. )
>
> http://www.actiocms.com/MsdsDisplayc...ustralian.cfm?
msds_id=522629&dbname=actioauthor1&Language=1&CFID=1016238&CFTOKEN=62733302
>
> Rust can also be removed with phosphoric acid. I have a small bottle of
> rust remover, which I experimented with on a small piece of sheet metal.
> As soon as the rust remover was rinsed away, a very fine coating of
> fresh rust immediately appeared. You couldn't possibly apply a
> protective coating, considering the speed with which new rust appeared.
> As a result, if you were treating a piece of metal with a compound like
> this, you'd want the work piece to be completely rinsed and dry, before
> applying a rust paint on top of it. Since rust paint is designed to be
> applied over rust, such a fine coating of rust on the surface won't
> matter.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phospho...d#Rust_removal
>
> A regular paint may not apply well over rust, because the paint film
> cannot properly form over the rust. Look for a rust paint instead.
>
> Paul

If you've never used POR-15 before, read the directions carefully. It's
great stuff but if you make a mistake, it's nearly impossible to remove
once it has set up.

> If your case is rusting something is very wrong. Either the environment
> the case is being stored in is contributing to the rusting or there's
> something wrong with the case, or both. I'd look into that before
> deciding what enamel paint you're going to use, or you could be looking
> at corrosion of more vital components next time.

I also think periodic removal of dust accumulated at the back could
avoid accumulation of moisture which might lead to rusting...

I haven't cleaned the case for many years, and the PC was working around
the clock all the time!

--
@~@ Might, Courage, Vision, SINCERITY.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and Farce be with you!
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^ ^ 21:00:01 up 5 days 2:41 2 users load average: 1.05 1.07 1.08
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Man-wai Chang to The Door (+MS=32B) wrote:
>
> I just finished removing the rust on the back plane of an old ATX case,
> and would like to apply a layer of protective paint on it to prevent
> future rusting!
>
> Does the following work? Is it merely bluffing with nano-technology?
>
> Surf City Garage 134 Nano Seal Protective Coat - 16 oz.
> by Surf City Garage
> Buy new: $25.19
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Surf-City-Gara...7325137&sr=8-2

I'd be skeptical because a layer of wax (no matter what it's called)
has to be a lot thinner than paint and so will almost surely let much
more moisture penetrate through it. Apparently the best paint, by
far, for sealing out moisture is oil-based enamel, while lacquer is a
lot more porous (some makers of car covers prohibit the use of their
products over lacquer finishes, even GM factory paint jobs). But
worst of all is latex, which I've read is 100x as permeable to
moisture as alkyd enamel house paint is (why alkyd over latex causes
blisters).

Paul mentioned rust paint, and I've had good luck with Krylon Rust
Tough on my car wheels.

I was told to treat bare metal with phosphoric acid to make paint sick
better to it, and photos at an auto paint supply house showed that
painted steel panels, intentionally scratched all the way through the
paint, rusted a lot less when the acid was used. And at least for
steel, oxalic acid can be used instead.

How about cold galvanizing spray? It leaves a coating made of 90-98%
zinc.




Paul mentioned rust paint, and one brand is Krylon Rust Tough, which
I've used on rusty car wheels.